I do live in high altitude -30-112+F temperature environment and went TD-5 180 T-stat.


I'm rarely below 200F (usually at an idle with AC-off), and see no delay with heat in the winter.


Just upkeep your system, roll the die and hope you don't get a blown head gasket, or worse, a slipped liner.


Those will kill your engine faster than any sludge, and why risk the 9mpg open-loop?

 

I'm just about to do this mod, any updates on how it has been running?

 

Just finished up, running really well.



did it slightly different

 

Well Im in south florida still and heat index 100-110 and its been pretty hot n humid for awhile now... since summer i noticed in general i had been getting hotter but not overheating with the mod.. but lately my highway temps went from 183 to 194 and idle up to 208 so Ive came to conclusion its time to check the thermostat... well my bleed hole I drilled was somehow on the bottom... maybe I retightened the housing and it spun or something... anyway no biggie... just preparing in case a sluggish thermostat I bought another... some super high flow that replaced the stant thermostat from the Mod pages.. apparently that one had been discontinued and I thought hmm high flow may be good... anyway.. i haven't made a bleed hole since not sure really where to make it as the housing is different... put it all back together and with this mod literally seconds! but temps with new thermostat kept climbing up to 220 so I turned off disco and pulled thermostat since I was in a hurry anyway.. i may have had a little air in there and Ill drill a hole in the new thermostat and put back in... but to my point... it sure ran nice n cool 179 lowest but generally 181-189 range... i guess simulating an open thermostat... it didn't run too cold or too hot... was quite pleasant! here at these tropical island like temps i probably don't need a thermal in summer...

 

The one thing I REALLY DO LIKE is that with this mod its literally minutes to change thermal! also on tightening the housing... Im not sure what everyone is using... I've been doing it by hand and it seems to be fine... but I did see a wrench at home Depot in the plumbing section that had VERY wide jaws and not serrated that would work perfect... they are like $14 each and I guess you would get 2 of them... for me I apparently have a pretty good grip so did it by hand... just make sure you loosen hoses first before tightening .. once I did have it try to back off because hose hat twisted tension on it... my bad lol never overheated I noticed some fluid under disco one day about a year ago... lesson learned lol

 

I run 188-193F down the road right now in SETX with a heat index of 110F. At idle it'll go to 204F with the AC on and that's not bad if you ask me. That is on two 4.0L V8's with the TD5 180F Grey OEM Thermostat and green 50/50 coolant.

 

Mine still works great, but in above 90deg temps it starts climbing when the truck is in traffic or stopped. I think it would stop in the 205-210 region, but typically I turn it off before it gets there. I have a brand new water pump and clutch, and a fairly fresh radiator. I am pretty confident that the climbing temps are because the system simply was not designed to maintain 180deg in higher ambient temps. That's one reason I've been wanting to try a high flow electric fan. If that doesn't work, the next step is a larger radiator, which I very likely won't bother messing with.

Personally, I'd also really like to vent some of the hot air out of the hood. I've been seeing intake temps above 160deg when the coolant temps are 185deg.

 

Yeah I've seen my IA temps up to 148F here in SETX in traffic or idling. I'm thinking about some hood louvers as well. I found a set from Rugged Ridge (of coarse for a Jeep), but they look well made and are a nice shape. I've also considered the TJ/JK metal hood louver that covers the entire center of the hood. I'm pretty sure with a hood black out it would blend in rather well.

The cooling system on the D2 isn't bad, and it's comparable to my H3 Alpha with the 5.3L. It's just from what I've seen on both vehicles a lot of heat is trapped under the hood.

 

Just thinking out loud... since the Disco was designed to have a sealed hood , what about just removing those seals around edge under hood to allow hot air to escape? instead of cutting permanent holes in hood? maybe it wouldn't make a difference but just an idea... i could see also how the snorkel could bring in cooler air also.... not to mention a fender can be had cheaper than a hood if you wanted to go back to stock lol

 

Obviously the purple Glow Shift water sender adapter is the way to go.