D2 Radiator Removal
#31
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Sixpack577 (07-19-2018)
#33
I had the same problem, and you are correct about the nut being brass. If you're simply removing the radiator and plan on reinstalling it then you can follow my instructions a few posts ago to get the radiator out. It's not the fastest way to do it but it does get around the corroded nut problem. More recently I replaced the radiator and needed to remove that side rail to transfer it to the new radiator. This required a dremel to cut away enough of the plastic boss on the old radiator so I could get a pair of vice grips on the nut. I had a leak at the top mounting hole for the fan shroud there and I'm guessing the coolant created galvanic corrosion and despite being brass it still was stuck fast. I replaced the hardware with 316 stainless when I installed the new radiator. FWIW, I was able to do this without ruining the old radiator, meaning creating yet another leak in addition to the one on top.
The following users liked this post:
DiscoBuckeye (09-04-2018)
#34
I had the same problem, and you are correct about the nut being brass. If you're simply removing the radiator and plan on reinstalling it then you can follow my instructions a few posts ago to get the radiator out. It's not the fastest way to do it but it does get around the corroded nut problem. More recently I replaced the radiator and needed to remove that side rail to transfer it to the new radiator. This required a dremel to cut away enough of the plastic boss on the old radiator so I could get a pair of vice grips on the nut. I had a leak at the top mounting hole for the fan shroud there and I'm guessing the coolant created galvanic corrosion and despite being brass it still was stuck fast. I replaced the hardware with 316 stainless when I installed the new radiator. FWIW, I was able to do this without ruining the old radiator, meaning creating yet another leak in addition to the one on top.
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