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D2 Radiator Removal

Old Jul 18, 2018 | 04:17 PM
  #31  
shanechevelle's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Sixpack577
No, removing them is no help at all.
You're just adding work.
Totally agree.

More time wasted taking them out.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2018 | 06:15 AM
  #32  
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Quick question, What if one of the 10mm bolts is so rusted into the brass<?> captured bolt on the passenger side and that nut just spins. any secrets to getting it to submit?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2018 | 08:32 AM
  #33  
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I had the same problem, and you are correct about the nut being brass. If you're simply removing the radiator and plan on reinstalling it then you can follow my instructions a few posts ago to get the radiator out. It's not the fastest way to do it but it does get around the corroded nut problem. More recently I replaced the radiator and needed to remove that side rail to transfer it to the new radiator. This required a dremel to cut away enough of the plastic boss on the old radiator so I could get a pair of vice grips on the nut. I had a leak at the top mounting hole for the fan shroud there and I'm guessing the coolant created galvanic corrosion and despite being brass it still was stuck fast. I replaced the hardware with 316 stainless when I installed the new radiator. FWIW, I was able to do this without ruining the old radiator, meaning creating yet another leak in addition to the one on top.

 
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Old Sep 4, 2018 | 02:43 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by ahab
I had the same problem, and you are correct about the nut being brass. If you're simply removing the radiator and plan on reinstalling it then you can follow my instructions a few posts ago to get the radiator out. It's not the fastest way to do it but it does get around the corroded nut problem. More recently I replaced the radiator and needed to remove that side rail to transfer it to the new radiator. This required a dremel to cut away enough of the plastic boss on the old radiator so I could get a pair of vice grips on the nut. I had a leak at the top mounting hole for the fan shroud there and I'm guessing the coolant created galvanic corrosion and despite being brass it still was stuck fast. I replaced the hardware with 316 stainless when I installed the new radiator. FWIW, I was able to do this without ruining the old radiator, meaning creating yet another leak in addition to the one on top.

I am going to try and cut the bolt. I think it came out enough to cut it. I am going to reuse the old one. Thank you for the insight. I am going with SS as well. what I put it back together. I destroyed one of the phillips screws on top as well
 
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Old Sep 4, 2018 | 05:14 PM
  #35  
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I hate those phillips screws
 
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Old Sep 4, 2018 | 10:15 PM
  #36  
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I was able to cut it. On to the front cover
 
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