Vehicle: 2002 D2 4.0 V8 123k

Problem: Recently, the temperatures in Corpus Christi, TX have reached into the 90s and my D2 doesn't want to start up again after driving around for a while. For example, it started up yesterday just fine, I drove it 15 minutes to Home Depot. I shopped for 20 min and when I returned, the Rover cranked but did not fire. I let it sit for another 20 to 30 min and it started up fine and ran smooth all the way home.

According to the temperature gauge, the engine is not overheating (at least not while running). Only once, the M and S mode lights began flashing and I was stuck in limp mode until I shut down and restarted. Other than that once, I've only had the starting issue.

If I park it and let it sit longer than an hour, it starts right up. If I shut it down and start it within 3-5 min, it's starts right up.

The Check Engine light is not on and I pulled no codes.

If there's an electrical fan that runs after shutdown, I've never noticed, and there definitely isn't one running now.

Any suggestions?

 

Crank position sensor maybe?
When bad they act up with warm engine

 

Sounds like you need a new crankshaft position sensor. The bosch one is around $90 , but i've heard Autozone has one for $60 and i've heard that it is the bosch in a duralast box.

 

CPK was the first likely culprit, but from the RAVE:
"In the event of a CKP sensor signal failure any of the following symptoms may be observed:
Engine cranks but fails to start.
MIL remains on at all times.
Engine misfires (CKP sensor incorrectly fitted).
Engine runs roughly or even stalls (CKP sensor incorrectly fitted).
Tachometer fails to work.
Flywheel adaption reset – ferrous contamination"

The only symptom I'm seeing is the first. The engine doesn't run rough or misfire and the tach works fine. Is it possible the CPK could be failed without all these symptoms?

 

I think anyone who buys a DII should replace theirs first thing. They often go without warning at the most inconvenient time. Just my $.02


Do it yourself and take your time on the first one.

 

First - swap the fuel pump relay with the washer relay next to it.

Next - replace your crankshaft position sensor.

Both of those will cause your exact symptoms, but the relay takes 5 seconds while the sensor is a bit of a PITA.

Those RAVE symptoms for the sensor failure are not universal; the most common symptom of CKS failure is it won't crank when warm.

 

Especially when you don't know its history.

Changed mine when I bought it and kept the other one as a spare.
I bought the "cheap" one from Advance Auto. Been working for almost 4 years and no problem. (Now I've jinxed myself! )
BTW; the check engine light usually won't come on until the sensor is completely dead. I've yet to hear of anyone getting a pending code for the CPS.

 

Thanks y'all. I'll try it out.

 

The CPS did it. I replaced it and installed it wrong, then spent 3 months chasing my tail on other possibilities. Then one day, I watched a video of a guy installing a CPS on his DII and realized I'd installed the spacers and sensor in the wrong order. DOH! Cant believe it. Anyway, the CPS did it. Thanks for the help, y'all.

 

Holy Cow. Over 1 year since your last post on this thread and you finally got it fixed. Better late then never I guess. Good Job man. This post is so old I answered it over a year ago under my old name, Jared9220. LOL