Guys, I'll be going to the rad shop tomorrow to havea radcustom made in order to fix the leaking rad problemonce and for all.

But I still have a question regarding the fact that my Disco, although theneedlenever passes the mid point on the temp gauge, runs incredibly hot. And I'm sureto the pointof leaving my finger prints on the hose should I dare tohold it for even a second. Even my buddy with the rad shop found it surprisingly hot the other day when he had to remove the top cover to access the rad for testing.

So my question is: the thing is not overheating, but is this normal....Do they all run that hot???While at the rad shop, should I havethe thermostat changed for a cooler running one???

Last winter, ifI hadthe heat at the maximum setting and the fan blowing at max, the air coming out was so warm that I'd feel a burning sensation if I'd put my fingers in front of the grill.

It's true that my other vehicle was a Jeep TJ , and although the heating is adequate, it's definitely not the warmest vehicle in town.


Wadayathink ?????

 

Rover engine compartment have always run very hot as part of their normal operation so don't worry about it.
As for a hot heater in the winter, what is to complain about when it's 20 below out?

 

Not complaining at all !!!! Just making sure that that much heat is normal. Since the Disco is at the rad shop until tomorrow, I could have gotten a cooler running thermostat for them to install while they're at it.

But since you say that they normally run that hot......I'll leave it. Even if the saying 'If it ain't broke....why fix it' doesn't necessarily apply to Rovers

 

On a Rover, you never change temps. to try and run het cooler, you'll land up getting worse gas mileage because the ECU will keep your engine in open loop longer trying to get it to operating temp.
There is really nothing you can do, it is more an issue of the total volumn of air that gets past the grill. Make sur that radiator shop knows the proper procedure to bleed the air out of the engine when they are dome, also use only DexCool , I don't care what the radiator shop says. You might also buy a bottle of one of the coolant additives, like Royal Purples coolant additive, it can drop the over all range down by as much as 20 degrees.

 

I sure hope that they know the proper procedure to bleed the system. But if you're willing to share the info, I'll call my friend that owns the rad shop to make sure he's aware of the procedure. Unless its the same as all other vehicles. Then I'm 100% sure he knows. He's been in business for ever. It's a family thing.

As for dexcool, he knows that already. I think I mentionned it like 10 times. Even repeated it this morning when dropping the disco.

 

Thats good to know.I've kinda been wondering about the engine temp myself.My needle is always in the centre,but the rad fan will come on even after a short drive.Glad to hear that its normal. Now,if I couldjustdo something about that pesky oil leak I've been chasing for three years!......any suggestions Darover? LOL!

 

Hey my friend, you wouldn't believe what I came up with to take care of the oil leak. It still leaks ( actually more of a minor seepage that eventually made its way down the engine and driped on my garage floor) but my new driveway and garage floor are nowsafe.

Real quick, I bolted a square cooking pan on the cross bar that is located under the oil pan. Short story, I had to cut one face of the cooking pan to clear the oil pan since the cross bar is on an angle, and now when it drips, it drips into the cooking pan and not on the ground.Very cheap fix,completely un-noticeable unless youdive under the truckand it works. It even allows you to see the amount of oil that you loose, which in my case is very, very, little.

I took pictures when doing it all. I was planning on showing my cheap fix, but ended up being afraid of being a laughing stock. I just had to find something before spending that $20 grand for interlocking my driveway.......And it perfectly works for me.

 

Never mind on the bleeding procedures mike, found the info on my Rave CD, about removing the bleed screw on the top hose, lift the expansion bottle 8 inches and add coolant until a steady flow of coolant comes out the bleed hole, reinstall the screw, and re-install the bottle in its intended location and fill to the fill up line. Start the engine and let it reach normal operating temperature. Check for leaks. Let it cool down and fill again to the full line in bottle. Right?????

 

I'll be the first to say that your idea is nothing short of genius!I have a interlocking driveway and I spend more than my fair share of time with a driveway spot removal spray bottle in my hand.I bet a lot of guys wish they could have thought of such a simple remedy.

 

Well, If you want I can send you the pictures. Or better yet, you're welcome to come down and see it firsthand.