Noticed that the passenger side CV boot is damaged on my D2 (thanks Swove!) and needs to be addressed.

I'm leaning toward purchasing a rebuilt shaft (which I believe has the CV joint and boot ready to go) from Roverland. $79.

I wasn't able to find much on here addressing this particular item. Was wondering if anyone has advice and experience with roverland's rebuilt part. Thanks!

 

Not sure on the rebuilt unit from rover land
But for about $7 you can have a boot , new clips, and grease to repack. Just did about 7 of them

 

Hi, I hijacked this from an English LR forum. Hope it helps some.

Disco 2 – Replacing the CV Gaiter.

Anticipate 1-2 hrs per side

Sorry no photo’s!

If you look at the Rave or Haynes instructions, they will give you a couple of not needed steps.
This write up is based on what is actually needed to be done to complete the work.
You may want to get a new set of front brake pads on the side to replace as part of this job?

Firstly look at the new CV gaiter kit contents:
New hub nut (not needed as wont be removed!)
Shot of CV grease
Gaiter
Circular Spring Ring Clip.
Band-IT bands (we're gonna use cable ties and sealant)

Secondly the tools you will need:
19mm Ring Spanner
15mm Ring Spanner
12mm Socket
Large Crosshead screwdriver
8mm Spanner/Socket
5mm Hex key (allen)
Mole grips
Wire brush
Nose pliers
Side cutters
Dremmel /hacksaw
Stanley Knife
A Lump Hammer
Copper faced mallet
Bench with Vice
Latex Gloves
Clean Rags
WD40
Locktite
Instant Gasket
Cable Ties large 5mm
Length of copper pipe and a large long bolt

The Method:
Crack wheel nuts, jack the car and secure with stands
Remove road wheel
Use 12mm socket to split the brake calliper from the receiver. Remove pads
Tie brake calliper out of the way to hockey stick using a cable tie. do not remove brake pipes
use 19mm ring spanner to remove the other half of the calliper (receiver) a little shock on the spanner with the hammer will loosen these bolts
Use large Cross head screwdriver to remove screw on Brake disc
Slide off Brake Disc (may need a wire brush to clean the hub)
Use 8mm to remove the 3 bolts on the disc backing plate and remove.
Use 15mm Ring to loosen the 4 bolt at the back that hold on the hub. a little shock on the spanner with the hammer will loosen these bolts, no need to fully remove them from the swivel as this will involve turning the steering wheel. Pull them back as far as they’ll go
Inspect the ABS sensor and Clean all around it (you are about to remove it and you don’t want any mud falling down the hole) so take your time and get it clean!
Use the 5mm allen key to remove ABS sensor, remove rubber O ring, and plug the hole with a small rag or kitchen towel etc. Muck in here could induce the ‘Three Amigos’ we don’t want that!!!
Now to remove the HUB, light taps with a hammer on the wheel stud flange should see it start to separate, tap all around it and spray some WD40 into the Crack as it starts to open. It needs to come out about 5mm before it is free.
Once hub is free from swivel housing extract the hub/CV/half shaft in ‘one’. being careful not to damage the ABS sensor or get it trapped.
take the complete half shaft/hub assembly over to your bench vice or workmate
Use a dremmel or hacksaw to cut the bands off the old gaiter. Careful here as any swarf getting into the CV grease will mean extra cleaning.
use your Stanley knife to cut the old gaiter off and expose the CV joint.
wrap the CV joint in a clean rag to prevent any contamination to the grease.
mount the shaft and CV into a vice so it is hanging vertically above the floor (I used a work mate) place a wooden board on the floor to cushion the fall, try to get the hub end about 5-10cm off the board (your about to separate the shaft from the CV/hub using a hammer) it’s going to fall off!
I used mole grips to clamp the shaft above my workmate face to stop the shaft pulling though the vice.
Using a copper faced mallet (I don’t have one so I improvised like this: get a length of copper pipe about a foot long and put a long snug bolt down the end. tap it with a hammer till the copper bends and holds the bolt in place)
Strike a hard blow with your mallet at the point where the shaft enters into the CV inner ring (you should have this bit wrapped in a rag)! Use your copper mallet to do this or hold your home made copper drift at this point and hit that with a lump hammer!
The hub should drop off onto the floor!
With any luck no grit or swarf has got into the CV grease
Put the Hub to one side and turn to the Shaft, remove the old ring clip and discard. Take off the spacer. clean above the flange and get it grease free where the new gaiter is going. Slip the new gaiter on and use some instant gasket on the shaft to create a seal in the final spot/recess where the gaiter will be. Secure the gaiter with a cable tie and pull tight with nose pliers. Apply a bead of instant gasket to the outside joint smooth it with your finger (put on a latex glove if you want) (or use the Band-IT bands with a thrift tool if you have one) leave it for the silicone to set.
Turn to the hub/CV assembly, remove the rag to expose the CV joint, inspect for swarf or grit and clean if it has become contaminated. Pack the CV joint with the grease from the kit making sure that the outside is grease free where the new gaiter is going to sit.
Turn back to the shaft and the new gaiter, fold the gaiter back on itself – turn it inside out!
Place the hub onto a wooden board on the floor CV side up. Put the spacer and the new ring clip from the kit onto the shaft and offer up the splines to the CV. Use your hammer and drift to hammer the shaft back onto the CV joint.
Run a bead of gasket around the outside of the CV joint and invert the new gaiter and offer it to it’s final position, being careful not to get grease onto your gasket seal.
Secure gaiter using a cable tie or the Band-IT. Then put a final bead of gasket around the gaiter/metal and smooth down with your finger. Now leave it to set.
While the gaiter is setting, head back to the car with your wire brush. Clean the swivel where the hub is going to go and apply a grease smear to the mating surface.
Clean the hub’s mating surface with a wire brush and apply a smear of grease.
Smear some grease on the shaft above the flange on the small end of the gaiter; this is where it seals into the axle. Rub a rag up and down the shaft and apply a smear of grease to it all over.
Offer the Hub/shaft back to the car being careful of the ABS sensor wire, and locate the splines on the inner end of the shaft into the diff.
The 4 bolts should be there ready to bolt the hub back on push them through and apply a drop of locktite to the threads as they become visible.
Turn the 4 bolts a bit at a time to draw the hub back in square
Remove plug for ABS sensor and replace sensor with rubber O ring.
Re-assemble in reverse order of above using locktite on all threads

 

Wow, what a great write-up France! Thank you...I just completed this work yesterday.

Everything was pretty much dead on. If I do another one, I may leave the larger diameter gaiter end on to protect the CV when separating the shaft.

I did the front brakes as well.

Of course, the three amigos are on (they were intermittent before). I'm hoping they disappear. I'm still hoping to find a reader in the Denver, Colorado area sometime.

Thanks again!