or if is throttle body heater hose. cap the hosed with a little bolt and clamp or loop it.
cut off nipple and put a rubber washer sheet metal screw in there.

 

fairly simple. you will need some hose clamps to replace the crimped ones.
-pop up then slide out the res. towards rear of engine. swap hoses. fill. bleed.

 

Pop up? As in lift up on the reservoir and move it toward the back and then it's loose? Clamp hoses while I remove them from the existing reservoir (to prevent 'flooding'), then with new clamps fasten them to the new reservoir and try to slide it back into place (by seating it and moving it forward to the front of the engine). So there aren't any nuts or bolts that I have to remove underneath the reservoir, correct?


Thanks so much for your help you guys..

 

no nuts/bolts. lift up at lid side and it will slide back and presto.
I do not usually bother with trying to pinch hoses for loss prevention. I just keep them up higher than the engine and radiator. for the most part you will only lose whatever is in the old res. anyway. you probably already have


I also use a rope or bungee wrapped around the res. to the top of the little hood holder-upper loop. this is important for refilling the system. forces the air out of the hoses.

 

[QUOTE=dusty1;470452]no nuts/bolts. lift up at lid side and it will slide back and presto.
I do not usually bother with trying to pinch hoses for loss prevention. I just keep them up higher than the engine and radiator. for the most part you will only lose whatever is in the old res. anyway. you probably already have


I also use a rope or bungee wrapped around the res. to the top of the little hood holder-upper loop. this is important for refilling the system. forces the air out of the hoses.[/QUOTE]

Baby steps Dusty.. baby steps. I got thru the first paragraph and am trying to decipher the second. Yes, I have lost most of the coolant in the reservoir and it has made a nice green river down the driveway.


Tonight when I go home to remove the reservoir, I will remove the hose clamps on all hoses, lift up on the old res. and slide it back. That should remove it. THEN.. I go to put the new res. in the same way (sliding it to the front) and I want to reconnect the hoses with new clamps. I fill the reservoir with fluid - it settles a bit but I don't have fluid in all of the hoses yet.


What is the purpose of the rope/bungee? Am I supposed to do that step earlier and lift the res. tank up high with the rope so that the fluid flows down into the system? Then after I know that the system is filled, put the res. back into place? A bit 'cornfused' here.. eck.. this is why I worry over if I'm doing it correctly..

 

okay, sorry.
no need to rope up the faulty tank, just the new one.
the reason the tank needs to be elevated higher than the rest of the system, is for the purpose of forcing any air up and out.


you will lift up the old one first and then take off the hoses. easier that way. and just try to keep the hoses from dropping down and spilling more coolant.

 

looks like you guys are crossing streams here a bit. dusty is definately one of the good guys 'round here, good advice. like he said- lift the rear (closest to firewall) part of the old res up, there's a couple of plastic u-shaped fasteners that keep it in place. when that side is up, slide the forward side (closest to grill/front of engine) to the rear, you'll see there's a little cut-out there where the plastic edge of the res slides into and out of. remove hoses, keeping ends up so as not to spill. replace hoses. with new hoses on, place bungy (or similar) around res and other end of bungy to one of the cut out's on the underside of the hood. loosen or remove plastic screw in radiator hose housing. fill res with coolant until it begins to come out of where the plastic screw was. replace screw. (repeat as nec). fill res, cap it, undo the bungy. slide forward part of the res into the cut out, pop rear part of the res into the u-shaped clips. easy breezy. harder to explain it than to do it. give it a try, you'll be fine.

 

Thanks Dusty.. just read Rover Hokie's write-up too for further explanation of roping/hanging You know what would be a big help for me tonight? If you'd say a little prayer for me Thanks again for your patience and tutorials

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...k-53646/page2/

 

I think everything is a bigger deal when you don't have wheels and you're short on time and you've misplaced your debit card and you're late for work and you're premenstrual - lol..

TMI, I know.

So it wasn't that bad. Thank you James, Dusty, SuperSport and all the others that pitched in to help. It's amazing how a used coolant reservoir from a 2000 Discovery II that is filthier than sin can be a life saver on a weekend. It took less than a half an hour with 3 non-mechanics (one playing the part of bungee cord) knocking their heads together with the useful info from this forum to get er done. And what a sense of accomplishment it was to tighten the final hose clamp and start Bertha up. Oh yes.. I spilled coolant all over my bare feet, sandals and driveway but that's half the fun, right?

No waterfall noises, knock on wood - think it just took courage that I didn't have this morning. I'm glad to have it done and can't thank you enough. Have a great weekend!!!

PS.. attaching a photo of the nipple on the old res. Interesting how it's discolored at the area where it cracked and how a 2000 reservoir can be dirtier than the 2002 but the nipple shows absolutely no wear. Not complaining though.. happy as a clam

 

Just got mine out of shop for the same thing. The fan shroud self-tapping screw leaked. Land Rover recommends new radiator because they tap into radiator. New rad with labor 1100.00.