Give the JB Weld time to cure, it does not do this in 10 minutes. Do it and leave overnight if possible, before refill the coolant.

 

Ath the risk of any glue failing, the replacement cost of your engine would be a good reason to buy a new bottle, cap and t/stat.

 

ordered it cheap from RockAuto per everyones advice. But it'll be a couple days before it arrives. Just need something to get me 5 minutes down the road for a couple of days. Thanks all

 

You can remove the coolant reservoir quite easily. Pull up on the rear, it will be firm, but the tank pulls up off the two round plastic cylinder shaped plastic pieces side by side. I basically works like a spring clamp on the outside of the two plastic pieces that are really connected in the middle to make them on piece. The reservoir has plastic rounded arms (like a clamp) on the bottom rear that snap over the double cylinder looking piece. Then pull it up and to the rear to pull the bottom front flat piece of plastic out of the slot in the metal under it. You will have to wiggle it a bit, but it will come out. I usually do this and wrap a long bungie cord around it and hook it, and put the other end of the bungie cord in a hole in the frame of the bottom front of the hood to suspend it in the air. It helps to keep the air out and minimize the need for burping the cooling system. While up in the air, you can see pretty much all around and under the coolant reservoir.

Not the best picture with the sun in the background, but you get the idea.

 

tell us the quality of the Rock Auto expansion tank when you get it. Im going to order one here soon.

I too had the nipple crack and only found it after bumping the line allowing a coolant spray.

I got lucky and picked up a replacement during lunch from a local junk yard for 35.

I did make a few, 32 mile one way trips with the cracked nipple though.

given it is only the return line from the plenum heater, I want be afraid to just plug it next time for a short term/field fix.

 

Disco Mike, if the coolant leaks out, don't these Discovery's have some sort of temperature engine cutoff sensor to prevent damage to the engine?

I'd be totally surprised if they didn't!

Thanks

Al
2003 D2 SE7

 

No shutoff sensors for overheat (or no oil pressure). I can't think of a car/light truck that does. (some industrial/military/aviation/heavy equipment does)

 

Tony, I get the hanging part..... But what do you do with the liquid inside the tank when you disconnect the two hoses? Just let it drip out?

Should I not worry about air being trapped inside the hoses once I install the new tank? Also since I'm at this, is it better to lengthen the rubber hose that runs to the fragile nipple so that it won't be as rigid as before?

Thanks

Al '03 D2