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Dead battery everyday

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  #21  
Old 12-26-2016, 11:18 AM
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the readings i was getting at the alt. was with a multi meter. and the code reader was plugged in under the dash and while the car is running the volts at the battery was tested with the multi-meter.

I am going to try and disconnect the air pump today. Since bought this battery in march, it has been dead atleast 20 times. so its probably bunked now.

This might be a silly question, with the neg. lead disconnected. i put the volt meter on it and the neg post and i get 12.08 volts. is that normal to get that reading with it disconnected?
 
  #22  
Old 12-26-2016, 12:11 PM
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Ok, i disconnected the air pump. and pulled the relay.

yesterday the battery was charged to 12.08 volts and this morning it was 12.06 with the neg unplugged overnight.

But on a side note. with the pump unplugged, and relay removed, I started car. Now the voltage at the battery read 13.8 with multi-meter, and the in car reading with a code reader is showing the same. before they would be 2 volt difference from battery and code reader.

Letting battery charge up a little bit before i do the test light.

Should I unplug the height sensors too and remove the 30a f11 fuse also?

The test light still comes on too.

The warning beep is real. I need to get that turned off. lol.

.
 

Last edited by MetalMarine; 12-26-2016 at 01:36 PM.
  #23  
Old 12-26-2016, 01:49 PM
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I'd unplug and remove em if it was me. It's probably cheaper to grab a SLABS unit out of an 03-04 D2 without SLS vs having it programmed. Ebay, Paul, or Will can hook you up on that. I left the fuses in and just pulled the relay.
 
  #24  
Old 12-26-2016, 01:58 PM
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I will look into a used slabs once i get some money back from this spending spree Christmas brings, lol.

Is it just a plug and play deal putting in a used slabs?

Thanks once again for all the help guys. Just another reason why I love this place.

.
 
  #25  
Old 12-26-2016, 03:37 PM
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Yep PNP, disconnect battery, remove old SLABS located behind the glove box and held in place via 4 10mm nuts which is on a plate held in place by two 14mm nuts which also houses the BCM.

I disconnect the BCM, and the SLABS unit, then remove the one bolt securing the BCM to the plate and remove the BCM. Then you'll have a clear view of the two 14mm nuts that need to be removed in order to remove the entire metal plate with the SLABS unit on it.

There shouldn't be any programming that needs to be done. (I've installed many SLABS units without a single issue). If the new 03-04 unit has codes stored you'll have to have them cleared with a decent scan tool, but other than that it's very easy.
 
  #26  
Old 12-26-2016, 05:03 PM
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ok, thanks for the info. and the 03/04 is compatible with the 01?
 
  #27  
Old 12-26-2016, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MetalMarine
This might be a silly question, with the neg. lead disconnected. i put the volt meter on it and the neg post and i get 12.08 volts. is that normal to get that reading with it disconnected?
No, this would indicate a very large voltage drain. Normally, with a volt meter connected as you've described...it should read around/about 0.046. This much voltage would not light up a test light and would be attributed to the ECM needs while key is off. Whereas, 12.08 would light up a test light...and drain a battery dead pretty quickly. Just make sure you don't have your volt meter set on the mil-volt setting. Some volt meters automatically go from one setting to the other without your notice...be sure there isn't a little tinny "m" on the meters screen.

If the volt meter is connected as you mentioned earlier and is not on mil-volt setting amd you have a voltage drain of this magnitude, I'd be looking for a positive cable rubbing against something (either from the battery to the starter or positive wires running from the starter to other locations, ignition, etc), or alternator internally shorted to ground, or starter solenoid corrosion issue.

12.08 is a huge voltage drain.

It's obvious that you have a huge drain, since disconnecting the battery saved it from going dead overnight.

Brian.
 
  #28  
Old 12-26-2016, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MetalMarine
ok, thanks for the info. and the 03/04 is compatible with the 01?
Yep it'll also fully support CDL and it has better TC/ABS firmware.
 
  #29  
Old 12-26-2016, 10:26 PM
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I got my SLABS programmed at an indy earlier this year due to similar issues. Even after I pulled the fuse and relays, I could still hear the solenoids cycling in the box under the driver seat. It probably wouldn't of drained the battery, but I was leaving it in long term parking at an airport for a week and didn't want to risk it. If you pull the electrical plugs in the blackbox, thats what gets you the beeping alarms over 20mph.
The indy charged me 1/2 hr or so to reprogram, good investment IMHO.
 
  #30  
Old 12-26-2016, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
Yep it'll also fully support CDL and it has better TC/ABS firmware.
To be clear the 04' slabs unit supports CDL, 03' does not.
 


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