I have had the trio of lights on (TC/HDC/AL) for several months now. I have replaced the disks and pads all round with EBC green stuff and slotted disks. Braking bite is much better, still gets glazed easily and need to be used hard to get the bite back, but apart from that they are great.

However when I have a service done, the dealer just notes that the lights are on and can't do anything about it because I have non-factory brakes. (They will replace them with factory for $1500!)

I have read many of the posting here and I do not have the squeeling, dust etc that can make the lights come on. They used to come on occasionally until the dealer replaced the traction control valves, but about a month after that they came on permanently.

I just pulled all the brake rotors off and removed/inspected the sensors, everything is fine.

My question is: Why would the dealer (two seperate dealers have done this) just immediately blame the non-factory brakes? The way I see it, if the vehicle is stationary and you reset the codes and the lights immediately come back on, then the problem cannot be the brakes/disks. If the lights come on while driving, then I concede that it MAY be caused by non-factory brakes/Disks.

Is there any way to test the sensors to verify that a signal is getting to the control unit. The sensor looks like it is just a proximity switch that is activated by the gear in the hub. If this is all it is, then it should be easy to measure the voltages and see the signal turn on and off if you rotate the corresponding wheel back and forth a little way.

Finally, is there anyway to reset the lights once they are on permanently without having the dealer do it?

 

Need a little more info. In another of your posts you state you have a 00' DII is that correct? You also mention a warranty, what type?

No way to clear WABCO codes without TB or alternative.

 

Yes, I have a 2000 discovery II. The warranty was an extended warranty from the dealership that extended to 7 yrs 100K miles. I currently have 107K miles on it.

Regards Phil

 

First of all, most Dealers service departments have a policy of using only the parts they stock the shelves with-- from Land Rover. This way they maintain the highest profit margin that management leans on them to provide. Therefore it is not surprising to hear from you that they wanted you to pop $1500 for factory parts. From a functionable point of view, their statement about not being able to do anything because you don't have "factory brakes" --holds no water. "Bait" is correct in that you cannot clear the codes without a Tb or Autologic unit.

But lets talk about the cause for a second. This fault is sometimes thrown as a result of the ABS sensor being out of range, and this is something we have seen on the Disco II as a result of periodic excessive radial play in the wheel bearing/hub.....after mileage accumulates. And the fix is to replace the hub assy that includes a new ABS sensor. You need someone with a scanner to pull the codes and then go from there.

Read my sections on technical info at www.eurotekapg.com for more info.

Regards,

Geoman
eurotek apg
Northern California

 

An interesting follow-up. I started to get significant vibration between 25-45mph. At first I thought it was a missfire but finally called the dealership (North Scottsdale Landrover) and asked advice. They immediately pointed to a worn drive shaft and recommended that I not drive it any further as it would be fairly catastrophic if it broke. I had the drive shaft replaced and completely cured the problem.

The real reason for posting this is because of the other things that I realized were caused by the bad front drive shaft. Hopefully these symtoms will help someone out: I had been getting surging while braking for a many months and had decided the front disks were warped (again) and was prepared to change them out, turns out the surging was caused by the drive shaft.

The TC/HDC/ALB lights have not come on again after being reset, so it is possible that the surging caused by the bad drive shaft was causing the lights to come on (Sounds like a similar problem to the excessive play in the hub?)

So, if you start to experience surging and also start to have you TC/HDC/ABS lights come on, have someone check your drive shafts. Repair cost was $1100. Expensive but well worth it.

PS: I mention the dealer above in recognition of great customer service, this is the first time I have used this dealer and will continue to do so.

 

Hey thanks for the info - I am having the same vibration in the same car - but with less mileage. I also have extended warranty - will be getting this fixed asap!!