I am now on my second replacement MAF for my 2000 D2 V8

The previous MAF died when off roading, I only noticed once the vehicle smelt very very rich, and putting a scanner on it I got the P0102 code

After reading the forums I decided on ordering a new MAF, I have been running with the new MAF (Bosch) for about a month now, but today my vehicle popped a new code on my ultragauge, P0102 is back, and smelling very rich.

I checked the connections and I’m sure it’s not a wiring issue, I made sure to clean the wire terminals with contact cleaner just in case.

I have never cleaned this new MAF as I have read that’s what can kill them.

I tested the old MAF and it did not work either, both MAF’s IAT sensors work, but they both do not report back the g/s result to my scanner.

I can’t keep spending $500 a pop on a new maf, so something else must be going on. I also think the last round of driving with bad maf has killed my O2 sensors.

Any advice would be awesome. Just want to trust my D2 again.

EDIT: Moved this to the D2 Category

 

I just replaced mine with one of these, did it pretty recently so I haven't had it for very long, but it's working fine so far. Just swap the MAF into your original housing, easy enough to do if you have the tools.


Also, just because a MAF code comes up, that doesn't always mean it's bad. It could also mean you have a vacuum leak somewhere. May be worth some time to diagnose to be sure. Just a thought

 

It's always a good idea to clear the adaptions whenever you do a tune up or replace an MAF, O2 Sensor, IAC, or TPS sensor.

 

Clear how?

 

Hawkeye, Nanocom, T4, or any higher end scantool

 

Interesting. What's clearing it do?

 

For those who don't have a scan tool, Doesn't disconnecting the battery for a few minutes also clear the memory?

 

I've never seen the adaptive settings get defaulted via a battery disconnect. Same with SLABS faults = they do not clear or reset without a scan tool.

​​​​​​When the Adaptive settings are cleared it puts all config at a default baseline, then when the vehicle performs a drive cycle it "adapts" to the input the sensors are giving the ECU. If you slap on a new part it will run at whatever the adaptive settings are currently for it. Once cleared or reset the new sensor will send new data and that can be the difference in MPG, idle, and engine performance. Now after several drive cycles it "should" adapt to the new sensor, but sometimes to get a drive cycle to complete can be a bit of a PITA. That's why it's just easier to reset the adaptions.

 

I replaced the last two MAF about 2 years apart. The MAF were after market, so I am sure that was part of the problem. It took me awhile to diagnosis since my 2nd MAF was fairly recently installed.