Dexcool "be gone" Kit
Disco Mike will be so proud of me...lol
Did I get this one right?
Was going to give the Heater Core a little extra attention and flush it seperate, prior to doing the prestone flush. Should I disconnect where they meet the firewall?... seems that the two lines are "bonded" together 8 inches back up the line and may become an issue with messing up the connections if the original hoses are stuck on the pipe? I bet it is an either or kind of thing.
Did I get this one right?
Was going to give the Heater Core a little extra attention and flush it seperate, prior to doing the prestone flush. Should I disconnect where they meet the firewall?... seems that the two lines are "bonded" together 8 inches back up the line and may become an issue with messing up the connections if the original hoses are stuck on the pipe? I bet it is an either or kind of thing.
I mean I don't see the point in giving the heater core extra attention. But if you life you could just take off the hoses where they connect at the fire wall in engine bay like you are suggesting. It's not a big deal but it might take a minute to take them off because Land Rover puts garbage *** glue on the hoses to help them seal on the pipes.
I would HIGHLY reccomend pulling the hoses from the Heater core and flushing as well. the hoses the heater core the more you can isolate the pieces parts the better the flush is going to be. The other option is to simply replace the hoses all together. How many miles, start fresh. new coolant, new clamps, new hoses, new thermostat, new expansion tank cap, plus I would if you are going this far take the expansion tank off and do a rinse and flush on that as well. and remember using distilled water is, while more of a pain the best. tap water will leave clak.
Where you take off the connection is not an issue, but flush both dirctions if you can. Dexcool as a product has some problems with customer ignorance. Being manly men, we don't need any directions, and we can't read that damn fine legal beagle print anyway. Mixing incompatible coolants is one problem, and leaving it in there for years, 150,000 miles, etc. is also a problem. Change early and often. Don't use tap water. Don't use well water. (Well water has more trace minerals in it, and is found at most places outside of major towns, and even in towns where deep wells are used instead of river water). Here a pix of Dex mud in a radiator. The chemical or lack of maintenace reason it is there is not known, the physical property of reduction of cooling capacity is easy for anyone to see. When you add stopz leakz products, that mud can be solidified. Plus some products coat the entire inside of the cooling system, see other pix of water pump. If inside the pump, where turbulence is king, the brown gunk can build up, it certainly does that everywhere else. So that hot blooded Rover engine can't transfer heat as well as before. Kinda like putting on a sweater to walk on the beach in 100 degree weather.
On this note, Sava and gents, I'm about to do my DEX flush because I do believe the hype and I can see the orange crud in lots of places. SO my question of the day is should I do a permanent and total heater bypass like I did with my D1 and would it offer any benefit? I've already got the inline mod done with success.
edit: Oh and I bypassed the throttle body heater also. I'm thinking a shorter more direct, well contained system might be better for no particular reason.
edit: Oh and I bypassed the throttle body heater also. I'm thinking a shorter more direct, well contained system might be better for no particular reason.
On your island paradise do you ever run the heat? Do you ever run defroster? Seems like an easy bypass (loop), and could be reversed. Would flush core anyway, and blow out with air, then cap those as well.
The benefit of keeping the heater connected is that if the truck starts running hot you could blast the heat to try and keep it from melting down. I think I would retain it, just in case.
I have seen the Dexcool deposits up close and personal and it's not pretty. I just put hoses and a water pump on my '97 Saab(GM era) and the system was crusted up big time. The old hoses and recovery tank were lined with what looked like pink oatmeal. It took me a good 2 hours of reverse flushing to get all the crap to stop coming out of the system, and I had every hose off in the engine compartment. I filled it with GREEN and bled the system out. I slept well.
I have seen the Dexcool deposits up close and personal and it's not pretty. I just put hoses and a water pump on my '97 Saab(GM era) and the system was crusted up big time. The old hoses and recovery tank were lined with what looked like pink oatmeal. It took me a good 2 hours of reverse flushing to get all the crap to stop coming out of the system, and I had every hose off in the engine compartment. I filled it with GREEN and bled the system out. I slept well.
The benefit of keeping the heater connected is that if the truck starts running hot you could blast the heat to try and keep it from melting down. I think I would retain it, just in case.
I have seen the Dexcool deposits up close and personal and it's not pretty. I just put hoses and a water pump on my '97 Saab(GM era) and the system was crusted up big time. The old hoses and recovery tank were lined with what looked like pink oatmeal. It took me a good 2 hours of reverse flushing to get all the crap to stop coming out of the system, and I had every hose off in the engine compartment. I filled it with GREEN and bled the system out. I slept well.
I have seen the Dexcool deposits up close and personal and it's not pretty. I just put hoses and a water pump on my '97 Saab(GM era) and the system was crusted up big time. The old hoses and recovery tank were lined with what looked like pink oatmeal. It took me a good 2 hours of reverse flushing to get all the crap to stop coming out of the system, and I had every hose off in the engine compartment. I filled it with GREEN and bled the system out. I slept well.
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