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Diagnosing noise in drive train

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Old Oct 23, 2024 | 07:52 PM
  #21  
SouthByWest's Avatar
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Much appreciated! Thank you!
 
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Old Oct 24, 2024 | 04:36 AM
  #22  
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[QUOTE=SouthByWest;913647]
Originally Posted by Extinct
Sounds like a wheel hub bearing going out, try to see if it is louder turning and then notice right vs left. BTW, still a good idea to check the front driveshaft. Wheel hubs usually start going out with a low grade roar that gets louder as they wear but you would really have to ignore it a long time for it to fail catastrophically.

I will check that. I’ve replaced a couple of hubs previously. But we did check for movement a couple of months ago, and everything was solid. Maybe I drove over something.
Or could be the new chinese hub is already making noise (they are almost all made in china now). Which ones did you replace? Road impact should not affect the hub. If your truck is high mileage then it would not be out of the question for another hub to be worn out.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2024 | 08:53 AM
  #23  
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Regarding locking the center diff.... this is what it looks like (outside of the vehicle)...

 
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Old Oct 24, 2024 | 09:30 AM
  #24  
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Perfect! Thank you!
 
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Old Dec 2, 2024 | 09:27 PM
  #25  
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OK, I have interesting news on this.

Last week YouTube recommended a video from Scotty Kilmer titled something like Loud Noise at High Speed. It turned out to match my issues entirely.

His personal car was quiet at low and mid-speeds, but got super loud at highway speeds. It didn’t sound to him like it was coming from the drive train, so he assumed it was a bad rear bearing and replaced it. (See Extinct’s comment above.) But it didn’t solve the problem!

He then checked his tires, which were somewhat old. There was no cracking at all in the sidewall, but he did find previously unnoticed very small cracks in the tread. He replaced all four tires, and that solved the problem entirely. He looked inside the old tires, and they were basically destroyed from the inside, even though nothing had shown up in the sidewalls.

My rear tires were nearly eight years old, but my mechanic and I have checked them regularly and never found any cracking. Since the tread was still deep, we figured it was OK to continue driving on them.

Wrong! When I watched the video, I knew that this was the problem with my Disco. I replaced all four tires this afternoon, and the worst noise had gone away.

Three things to note:

1. Apparently, tire manufacturers have solved the problem of cracks appearing in the sidewalls, but this just hides the problem of dry rot inside the tire. Six years is apparently pretty much the limit before the tires start to go bad, cracks or no cracks.

2. Mine is a stock 2000 with 16 inch wheels, and there are now only seven tires in this size available on Tire Rack. Michelin has discontinued this size entirely. I bought a set of Firestone Destination LE3. I don’t think they are quite as quiet as the Michelins, but it was the best I could do given the limited options.

3. Getting rid of this very loud noises caused by the bad tires has brought into relief a set of lower level noises, which I am guessing are in various parts of the drive train. They don’t seem vehicle-threatening at this point, but the noise is still quite a bit louder than when new. These should be easier to isolate and diagnose now that the tire noise is dissipated.

Again, thanks to everyone for their thoughts and suggestions. Kudos to Waltnyc for suggesting that it might be a problem with the tires. I will report back as we get into figuring out what is causing the remaining noises.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2024 | 08:50 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by SouthByWest
...sounds like you both are saying that if the front driveshaft is removed, it is OK to lock the center differential and drive over normal paved road. Is this correct? ...
My Disco is a sinful rear wheel drive only for about 11 years now, no front driveshaft with locked transfer case since, removed front wheel shafts and runs at any speed just fine. If I remember well, unplugged the electric switch on top of the transfer case too. I have not discarded the transfer case because a catalytic converter is in the way of connecting the transmission tail to the rear differential directly.

For my vibrations, I solved by lubricating the 4 wheel hub bearings and each time lasted like 6 years before repeating. How? By removing the ABS sensors from its hub hole and injecting grease into it with a tight fit rubber tipped grease gun into the bearing cavity until overflows by the inner hub seal. (Clean the grease overflow so discs won't get lubed !)
 

Last edited by Externet; Dec 3, 2024 at 08:55 AM.
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