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Diagnosing rebuilt engine - burning oil, lean, and low power up inclines

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  #11  
Old 05-01-2018, 09:04 AM
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Yellow tops are an upgrade to the single port injectors found on the GEMS motors. The injectors on a Bosch motors are already an upgrade.

But that doesn’t help Jeff. I’m stumped.

Have you checked vacuum readings?
 
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  #12  
Old 05-01-2018, 09:07 AM
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Also, with good compression a leak down test should not show anything different, but I would try anyway doing each cylinder for 10 minutes.
 
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  #13  
Old 05-01-2018, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mirrajumper

Are the plugs seated properly with the sealing metal washers being slightly compressed? Please rule that out.
A second consideration is your PCV valves on the pass and driver side. If they are blocked or not attached your engine will chug oil. As posted previously- NOT using synthetic now is a good thing. At 14.99 a gallon, rotella is a deal and you can always add in the zinc additive and change it all out a few times while you sort this out.
Lastly, the noise on the fuel rail could be a sticking injector. Have you ruled that out, or moved it on a trail basis? You can clean and reinstall the plugs to reread what deposits wet/dry etc that show.
On a last inspection, I would look at the oil pick up screen. Left over sealant or contamiments from rebuild? If the top hat liners are designed to seal up the deck- what are mods or machining did the shop do?
Plugs were in good, maybe a touch too tight. I was using NGK iridium in one heat range cooler than OE spec. I'm going to try OE spec plugs and see what that does. A slightly hotter plug may reduce those deposits.

Fitting reman injectors to rule that out... I remember a couple of the pintle caps were loose so I might have a vacuum leak -- however idle is really good, so likely not?. I have a brand new fuel pump so I might as well fit that too.

Oil pressure is perfect so I don't think dropping the pan is a good move at the moment

Originally Posted by abran

Have you checked vacuum readings?
Is vacuum on OBD2? I don't remember seeing it. Or is it another tool? What numbers am I looking for?

Originally Posted by abran
Also, with good compression a leak down test should not show anything different, but I would try anyway doing each cylinder for 10 minutes.
Ordered a leak down tester, fuel pressure tester, and smoke tester! Found this homemade smoke tester on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/EVAP-Vacuum...wAAOSwjEla6CjF

What about exhaust? What can I check there? How do I know if the cats are in good working order? I'd get a code if they weren't, right?
 
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Old 05-01-2018, 10:48 AM
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Just a random thought on one item, our P38 was getting so it would climb hills like a dog then out of nowhere a giant fiberglass snake came out the exhaust pipe, failed muffler baffling was the culprit. Ran good uphill after that was addressed.
 
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:09 AM
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+1
on failing injector or clogged cats or muffler.
 
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Old 05-01-2018, 12:45 PM
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Ordered a vacuum tester. Might pick up an exhaust back pressure tester too. Thats the best/easiest way to test the exhaust system?

Heck I should open up a shop at this rate of buying tools
 
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  #17  
Old 05-01-2018, 12:56 PM
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You can follow the values on this gauge. What would also give away an issue is a bouncy vacuum reading. Could indicate a cam or valve issue.


 
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  #18  
Old 05-01-2018, 01:46 PM
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What's a Kelvin-gram? (case matters in the ISO system...)
 
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Old 05-01-2018, 10:11 PM
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Feeling your frustration. I had rebuilt motor and heads that was using a quart per 100 miles (search my posts)
 
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  #20  
Old 05-01-2018, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jwehking
Feeling your frustration. I had rebuilt motor and heads that was using a quart per 100 miles (search my posts)
Interesting... well I'm not using chevy seals, I have whatever was in the lucky8 head gasket kit. Did you use genuine seals?

I have a lot of diagnosis and tests to do before pulling the heads... but the seals are something to keep in mind for sure. Is there anyway at all to verify the oil control rings are working properly?
 
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