Both. I have the Hawkeye.Everything shows good. It happens after a long drive. Twice so far. Once turning. Once stopping. No codes.

 

Clean as a whistle.

 

this exact same thing is happening to me right now. My mechanic has confirmed it is not MAF or vacuum lines. For me it happens when I brake to a stand still really fast. All the dash lights do come on for me though.

 

Fire, fuel and compression are what it needs to keep running. Compression is not likely going away, so it is fire or fuel. Could me the fuel pump going out intermittently, that has been known to happen. I think you said it has a new CPS right? Starts ok hot? ECU controls the fuel, so if it gets erroneous readings from the sensors it can throw off the fueling. Stopping can be related to change in vacuum resulting in a error on the afr determined by the ecu - that can happen with a bad brake booster but you would likely feel hard brakes and bit of a whooshing noise.

I am not familiar with the hawkeye, but if it won't graph the sensor outputs I recommend getting a $5 elm327 bluetooth module and the free torque app for an android - then graph the sensor readings and post them here.

 

You're loosing electrical power and that makes the truck shut down. You say batt terminals are good, how about the other ends of those cables? Ground connection at engine and grounding lug in the middle of the cable been removed and cleaned?? Same with the Pos connection to fuse box in engine bay and rear of alt. Ignition switch electrical connection and fuse box plug good? (wire jiggle test while truck is running)

 

So if its a failed battery connection, it should run on the alternator. If the alternator dies, it should run on the battery for a bit. But if everything dies, it a failed connection somewhere beyond the junction of these two (+) wires or failed ground battery (-)....

 

The groundings and Battery terminals are perfect. All fuses intact. The only place I did not check was under the fuse box. I changed the CPS with a new BOSCH and it solved the problem of shutting down. Somehow oil or coolant had seeped into the magnet on he CPS connector.

Everything is find now. Except there is a new problem - the car drives perfect but the SES light flicks on and the Ultra Gauge shows Error codes under the MAF and Engine Temperature readings. The car continues to drive perfectly. After replugging the Ultra Gauge same thing. The SES light flicks on and off while driving then Ultra gauge ERR codes. I posted another thread on this just now.

 

So I changed the Crank Position Sensor. The problem stopped FOR TWO MONTHS. Thought I fixed it. Today it died again. 100% dead. No electronics. Dead. EXACT SAME TURN AS BEFORE. A hard brake sharp right turn. Blammo everything is dead. Any ideas? Battery Terminals are tight. Groundings look perfect. What else besides the CPS or the Battery terminals could cause a sudden loss of power?

What happens if I'm on the highway going 70 MPH if this happens.?

 

If you are losing everything electrical (headlights, dash lights, engine components, etc), then you have a major electrical fault at main supply. So, if your cables/teminals are clean and tight, ground and positive, at each end (battery, alternator bracket and starter)...l'd try swapping the battery. You may have two plates loose inside the battery that are touching together, especially if this is happening while turning.

lf you are not losing everything, then l'd pull the fuse box in drivers compartment and look for rubbing wires underneath.

 

maybe a cable insulator wore through and wire grounds out due to certain g force. maybe a cable is about to break. With complete power loss, you need to start inspecting all major power sources and grounds and really checking the entire +/- cables......

also, hopefully you will not have to brake and make a sharp right turn at 70mph!