how do you go about doing the t-case?

 

I was going to use RedLine Heavy Shockproof, but at $112 for a case I decided not this year.
Maybe next, I have to order it online, no body sells it locally.

As for doing the t-case, there is a fill plug at 10 o'clock of the parking brake drum, remove it, then there is a drain plug, remove it.
MAKE SURE that you remove the fill plug first.
Then refill it, you will need a hand pump, $10.
Each diff takes ~2 qts as well as the t-case, I used 7 qts total, that included alittle overfilling and spillage and what is lost in the pump and your hair.
Have seven qts on hand you will use ~6.5.
If you have a DI then grease your swivel *****, 20 pumps of grease into each one twice a year.

 

i use on of these since i didnt have a pump... it has a twist on/off bit and it screws right onto a one quart oil container... u just have to suspend it above the fill plug and let it drain into it through the hose

 

Try and stay with Mobil 1 or Royal Purple unless you want to go with a good dino oil like alucas.
I would suggest you go with the 85/140 oil either way, with your mileage, this will give you more wear protection.
As for your K&N air filter, when you getting rid of that? Do have any idea how many people loose their MAF's because of the oil contamination caused from these filters, go back to a factory filter, the last longer on and off roqad and they remove a lot more dust.

 

I did the transfer case and both differentials last month. Here is a post I did after I finished. If you have any specific questions let me know. All three are fairly easy to perform, no harder than changing the oil.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...e+fluid+change

 

I've heard you say that before about the K&N- I got rid of mine today, swapped it out for a factory paper filter. Seems weird because they are so cheap, but I trust your advice!

 

Lube all the Grease Zerks while your under there!!!

Buy a Hand Pump.. I used the same device as DISCOXD posted and it was a PITA.. you can only get half of a full bottle out when putting in the T-Case, so its squeeze squeeze squeeze, crawl out from under the truck, take two half bottles, pour into one full bottle, crawl back under truck, squeeze squeeze squeeze.. you get the Idea.

I used Royal Purple..

 

alright im gonna try to get royal purple 85/140 and ditch that K&N, ebay i found some real cheap factory air filters.

 

One thing people are forgetting in the concern over weight (which doesn't matter that much, 85w90 or 85w140, over the last 35 years I've used 85w140 in Land Rovers from summer south to winter in Vermont) is the oil spec. Land Rover specs GL4 for the gearbox and diffs because GL5 has high pressure additives that deteriorate brass/bronze. GL5 is ok for the diffs, since there's no brass in them, but the transfer case does have brass I believe. FWIW plain GL4 is really hard to find in the US anymore. All I've found so far is Sta-Lube.

If you're off-roading you should should probably be changing it twice a year anyway.

 

I change mine once a year with dino lube and it comes out as clean as it went in.