i used amsoil

 

Exactly.
I would be a shame to drop $100 on gear lube just to drain it out 6 months later because you went wading and got water in the diffs.

You are always better off using a less expensive fluid and changing it more often than to use a expensive one and think you can just forget about it.

 

It would be even a bigger shame to have a diff with leaks and not fix them so you can do all the water crossing you want.
As for the 75/140 synthetic oil I used, it has vertially stop the build up of magnetic mud that normally builds up from typical metal wear which to me is all the reason I need to use good fluid and protect my gears and lockers

 

Not to drag up an old post, but really? Would you suggest someone jump out of an airplane without a parachute? There's a reason the torque specifications are in the manual. We're talking about a plastic fill plug. If there was ever a time (and believe me, EVERY time is THE time) to use a torque wrench, it's with a plastic plug that requires 7lbs/ft torque (equivalent to about one finger on a ratchet). In my opinion, and I mean absolutely no disrespect, that's poor advice. Get a torque wrench, and use it every time. Print out the torque specs chart and put it in your owners manual or tape it to your workbench. Don't ever try and fix a car without a torque wrench and the torque specs. You are just asking for trouble. $30 may seem a bit much upfront, but believe me, hindsight is far more costly.

 

Eaglerover22 please be a hot single female cause you just won my heart. I preach that **** to everyone and most people think I'm nuts. If it has a listed torque spec, its for a reason. My BMW motorcycle listed torque specs for the worm clamp screws on the intake, and I took the extra 3 seconds to torque it down and I NEVER had vac leak problems that were common (and always stemmed from oval warp gapping from over torquing). Torquing suspension and chasis components corectly is very important im dynamic load transfers, and anything designed to seal ie. anythign with seals/gaskets, plugs, etc!

 

If you replace it with a brass plug as mentioned, which really should be done, you don't really need a torque wrench unless you're really new to working on cars. I'm only talking about the drain plug.

 

I'm about to do the differential fluid change too, so.... besides the decision on what oil should be used, buying or not the torque wrench, where can you buy the brass plug?
Also are there any crush washer O-rings or any other part that should be replaced? I find very difficult to find the part numbers I need. Is there a parts catalog somewhere ?

Thanks

 

Take the plastic plug into home depot. I'm sure they have fittings that would fit it!

 

A torque wrench is not required.
Be careful removing the plastic plus and later reinstalling it, so it doesn't crack.
If you go to Lucky 8, he should have a replacement plug. I replaced bothe of mine and they come with a o-ring so they don't leak.
Don't forget to do your t/case with the same 85/140 at the same time, should take a total of 7 quarts between them.

 

I just changed my front diff oil, for some reason I thought I had one more gallon of gear oil in the garage than I actually did. I use the walmart brand 85-140, in the gallon jugs. I change my gear oil at a maximum of 10,000 miles, more often if i do a lot of water. Go to the hardware store, HD, or Lowes, and but a cheap <$10 garden sprayer. Cut the end off the wand, and fill with gear oil. Pump it up, and stick the end in the fill hole. Forget gear oil pumps, they take forever.