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DII Reliability Upgrades

Old Mar 13, 2014 | 02:35 PM
  #21  
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Agreed, but as stated they thus far do not exist. Considering however that my MPGs are 15.6 average, I'd say they gained HP by being more efficient (in air/fuel flow though, not in the valvetrain), so it's a step in the right direction at least.

Also, if you gained 50+ hp at the crank (whether via nitrous or efficiency upgrades), wouldn't this cause transmission issues?
 
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 02:58 PM
  #22  
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Anyone used this stuff?

Corroseal Rust Converter and Metal Primer (Quart)

I might do it on the frame just inside the 4 wheel wells as that's usually what rusts out first. I've got surface rust now and I'd like to hault it at that.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 03:32 PM
  #23  
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Sounds like por15. I was thinking of doing this to the frame rails on mine.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 09:00 AM
  #24  
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ah I did forget, once every spring I usually wash the underbody a good amount, let her dry for a few days then get underthere with some brass brushs and 2 rattlecans of black rust reformer. Just remember to wear goggles, gloves and old clothing lol
 
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 12:45 PM
  #25  
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"ah I did forget, once every spring I usually wash the underbody a good amount, let her dry for a few days then get underthere with some brass brushs and 2 rattlecans of black rust reformer. Just remember to wear goggles, gloves and old clothing lol"
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For you guys back east, such as NJ, this is good idea, because of that damn salt (can you say corrosion creation?) you put on the roads each winter, though it is near impossible to rid the salt from all hiding places on Rover, with holes into various places of the frame itself, etc., etc. In states where we don't use the salt, such care isn't needed.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 01:25 PM
  #26  
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lol I'm also blocks from the ocean so, gotta be carefull lol. I'm surprised how rust resistant the rover has been for its age... i guess because it leaks oil in so many locations that its self preserving haha
 
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 04:18 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by earlyrover
"ah I did forget, once every spring I usually wash the underbody a good amount, let her dry for a few days then get underthere with some brass brushs and 2 rattlecans of black rust reformer. Just remember to wear goggles, gloves and old clothing lol"
_______________________________
For you guys back east, such as NJ, this is good idea, because of that damn salt (can you say corrosion creation?) you put on the roads each winter, though it is near impossible to rid the salt from all hiding places on Rover, with holes into various places of the frame itself, etc., etc. In states where we don't use the salt, such care isn't needed.
I consider myself lucky enough to work the nightshift alone for about 3 hours every Friday night/saturday morning. I get to crawl under my truck with high pressure water hoses and what not. Every week or so I do this. I do have some rust on the rear from rails.. that will be taken care of over the summer.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 04:43 PM
  #28  
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Lets not all forget these rigs are 10 to 15 years old. My 2000 was built in 10/99 so that makes it 15 in October. So reliability is always going to be in question no matter what you do to them. Just be prepared to scrap or throw your wallet at it when the time comes.

To make these things like new again and in better than factory condition you would be looking at 25K+. That is dropping in a new motor, new tranny, new HD drive shafts, HD axles, Lockers, Rims, Tires, chasis, bushings, springs, shocks, paint, brake lines, lift kits. Not even talking about the interior.

But if you think about it, where would you get an almost new Luxury 4X4 for 25G's?
 
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