Disco 2 Noob in Austin, Texas
*edit Photo:

Gallery Link: https://nooner.smugmug.com/Sale-Stuf...LR-Grill-Guard
Last edited by Nooner; Jul 31, 2020 at 06:20 PM. Reason: added photo & link to more photos
I might have a bit of a problem...

Gallery Link: https://nooner.smugmug.com/2004-Disc...9-D2-Parts-car
Picked up what I thought was going to be another parts car, but I kinda like it!!! IT has a LOT of really nice trim, the interior is in pretty good shape, included a bunch of little spare parts, and the motor runs really great (especially as compared the the Kinversand one)
Only problem... the front driveshaft gave up the ghost on the PO, whacked the trans and now the trans needs replaced (he included a BMW trans.) My neighbors might think I am crazy. I now have 3 Land Rover D2's

Gallery Link: https://nooner.smugmug.com/2004-Disc...9-D2-Parts-car
Picked up what I thought was going to be another parts car, but I kinda like it!!! IT has a LOT of really nice trim, the interior is in pretty good shape, included a bunch of little spare parts, and the motor runs really great (especially as compared the the Kinversand one)
Only problem... the front driveshaft gave up the ghost on the PO, whacked the trans and now the trans needs replaced (he included a BMW trans.) My neighbors might think I am crazy. I now have 3 Land Rover D2's
Woohoo! They all run!!!
As soon as the Nanocom arrived, I immediately went to work on getting the Green 2004 running, and it does! Now, I have the flashing 'M' and 'S' gears (with what I believe is an associated low voltage code) so maybe I put too much stress on the battery when getting it going, but it does run, and sounds pretty decent except for a tick somewhere in the accessories and the aforementioned blinking M & S lights.
Of course the three amigos are lit up, seems to be the shuttle valve, so that'll get addressed soon. The AC system does blow cold, but it makes a racket, so that needs some troubleshooting eventually too, but now I can start baselining and swapping parts over from the donors!
As soon as the Nanocom arrived, I immediately went to work on getting the Green 2004 running, and it does! Now, I have the flashing 'M' and 'S' gears (with what I believe is an associated low voltage code) so maybe I put too much stress on the battery when getting it going, but it does run, and sounds pretty decent except for a tick somewhere in the accessories and the aforementioned blinking M & S lights.
Of course the three amigos are lit up, seems to be the shuttle valve, so that'll get addressed soon. The AC system does blow cold, but it makes a racket, so that needs some troubleshooting eventually too, but now I can start baselining and swapping parts over from the donors!
I also ordered up a few parts today:
-M1-301 Oil Filter (going to run 5w-30 'Gas Truck' Rotella (in the red bottle) on a brief 1500 mile interval before transitioning to T6 with a longer interval)
-LX-886 Air Filter
-NGK Spark plugs - I got the G-power plugs, will probably change them out on a pretty short interval too before SeaFoaming the engine and switching over to Iridium plugs. I figure with the age of the motor I could probably stand to use a 5 instead of the factory 6 heat range, but I am starting out with a 6
-Anker USB Charger, Bafx Bluetooth Dongle, Lenovo M7 Tablet and Torque Pro App - The UltraGauge is currently on backorder, so I am gonna try Torque Pro on a cheap Android Tablet. Total cost is about $120
- 10' each of Black and Red 1/0 Welding Cable, Mil-Spec 3/8" terminals and copper cable ends & 12' each of red and black shrink tube (4' each was $10 12' each is $15... I couldn't resist though I doubt I will ever use that much shrink tube!) - this will help clean up the battery cables after the H8 AGM battery swap
I will also be swapping the 180* thermostat over from the Kinversand and doing a coolant flush/fill
I'll check out the trans/tc/dif fluids and see what kind of condition the brakes are in next round.
@Nooner torque works very well, for systems monitoring.

I also finished the H8 AGM swap. Fabricated a little battery tray with AL angle from Home Depot. Made it a snug fit to the battery and it mounts to the stock battery tray holes with countersink fasteners. Fits great under the hood, but did require new battery cables. I went ahead and added a BlueSea switch and a dongle for a battery maintainer while I was at it. I prefer to use TecMate OptiMATEs, they seem to work nicely with AGM batteries. The bracket for the BlueSea switch mounts to a stock mounting hole for the OEM battery tray too. There is a bit of cleanup needed under the hood, but I feel confident with everything that was done so far, and now I can start running aroudn the neighborhood and taking her down to the lake! I do need to get a new grill and Bumper sometime soon.

Gallery Link: https://nooner.smugmug.com/2004-Discovery-2/8252020
Sounds like you're making good headway with this project. Keep up the good work. My only recommendation at this point would be...check transfer case fluid level. For some reason tgey get neglected, all four of mine were either empty or nearly empty.
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Havanarob
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Dec 31, 2010 07:33 PM



