How did you know?

 

Here's some pics I just downloaded. they show the fittings, lines, and degree of corrosion present.

Note the crack in the white plastic nipple area filled with accumulated crud, not a fresh wound. See next entry for the as found condition, these are after cleaning, I should have arranged them better.

 

Here's a few more good ones: they show the area that I disturbed trying to get to starter, this is when leak triggered from removing corroded lines from clamps, also shown is the filter and corroded clamp and some close ups of corroded lines ae well as the condition of the top of pump after plate removal.

I did not know she was such a nasty bitch when we first met. I failed to check her bottom closely then.

 

She's naughty

Did you get a plan for the new lines?

I'd almost be afraid to touch the gas tank, I think unless you cut the rubber,pull the pump,dry it thoroughly, cut the crimp clamps & re-rubber with double screw clamps.

I thought my filter went easy, she's getting a car wash tomorrow & a tank of 93

Luck,greg

 

Yeah at this point, I am unsure as to what to do regarding that mess at the inlet and outlet port for the pump. I need to study up on the pump removal, I will still have to fab up the new lines, but that crack has me concerned. Guess I will be pulling the pump soon. Is there a good illustration of the pump, is it all one unit or does it break down into sub-assemblies.

I was hoping to finish up soon, but that keeps getting further and further away. Ain't it fun. I an just fortunate that in my situation, I don't have to worry about getting to work since that is a thing of the past. All the time in the world. and I am the best mechanic I can afford.
Guess it will keep me off the streets and out of trouble a while longer.

Anybody got any suggestions or a fuel pump they don't need?

 

How do I get the red ring off of the fuel pump without that special tool?

Anyone been there done that?

 

Well, in a perfect world, I'd think you could hand turn it off.

I'd take a piece of wood, (less shock), and tap it with a hammer, gently, to see if I could

start unscrewing it. (maybe "threaten" it all around the edges with the wood first)


Do a search for disco fuel pump. If you don't need the whole ***'y, try "airtex #3240" I believe - $50 or so, good reviews, local auto parts

luck,greg

 

So it is threaded and unscrews? Ok, I got the fittings off this morning, not the preferred way though. Sprayed them with Liquid wrench, but the threaded aprts already hhad formed a galvanic bond with molecular migration I guess. One flare turned the other twisted in half between the flare and the tank port. I took a three-sided file and filed tthe other one in the same area.

Then I just walked away from it, was considering dropping the tank next so I can go ahead and have much better access for routing the new ones. Also need to address the rusted rear brake lines while I got it going on.

I ended up buying 25 foot rolls of 3/16, 1/4, 5/16 steel tubing. The damn autozone did not have very many fittings though. So I got to locate some of them. I'm going to replumb every inch of degraded tubing from front to rear.

I bought two new front lines when I did the front brakes, They cost as much as a 25 foot roll of tubing. Does anyone need replacement tubes for the front calipers on a Discovery I?

I 'll be attacking that fuel pump probably on Monday. I'll post an update. later.

 

Did some searches, found AB has a new red ring for like $10, so I'll get one of them in case I damage this one. Went to rangerover.net and learned the history of the RangeRover fuel pump evolution, excellent information on all facets from early problem with no access panels thru newer configurations. Mine is the non-ael early 97 version. I am thinking that as much effort as I have put into this, that I probably will go ahead and drop the tank out. I have a rubber strap wrench that may free the existing red ring if I degrease it good. Or maybe buy very large adjustable pliers. My biggest are only 4 inch.

Taking it off will allow me better leverage to get the red ring off and allow me much better access to the underside to reroute the new plumbing. I also saw the brake lines are in a similar state. It will also give me a chance to see if anything between the tank and the belly of the beast needs to be cured. Nasty bitch she was/is. I get tired of the residue falling off everytime I touch anything down there.

I see that the fuel pumps are considered to be possibly rebuildable. Replace brushes, etc.And the top is a separate piece on most. I'm looking forward to seeing all of it firsthand. Anybody know a source for the top piece?

Anyone have a removed one laying around they don't want?

I will also check the local salvage yard. Anyone know the design change point that would not work i.e. evap system,

I put some more pics on the photo album page if you want to take a look see.

Any new DI guys may want to inspect their fuel lines as well. Mine sprung a leak from moving the lines out of the clamps, that's bad.

 

I had a similar situation with my '98. I bought a used complete pump assy on ebay for $70, installed a new "pump" in it for $45, got the local NAPA store to make me some new plastic fuel lines with new connectors on them ~~$40.00 , and while I was at it I moved the filter farther up the frame rail where I could get at it with out taking off the rt rear wheel, did it all without removing the tank.