Yup....probably should have left it there as well. It was scraped becauae the engine went in it at 94,000km then it sat for awhile where it collected the rust.
Such a shame...the interior is spotless and still has that new smell.

I got it in a trade that cost me nothing....so as long as I don't put more into it than what I'd get for scrap I won't be out much.
Its getting close

 

Don't give up. Beautiful color and nice looking truck.

 

For the first time in who knows how long "Amber" moved under its own power😀 but does not want to stop lol. So back under it I go to see where the problem might be.
The rear wiper/washer works...nothing was ever wrong with it....just something wrong with the operator hahaha- was pushing the wrong button.

Besides the brakes not working the other problem I discovered today it the truck will idle very high...almost like the throttle is sticking, anyone have a suggetion of what might be causing that? Cables are good
Off the stands for a test drive....it worked....somewhat.

 

So after confirming it would move under its own power I finally replaced the brake lines and hoses but now it won't run...

Went to start it and something shorted...blew the fuse under the dash for the starting system, all other fuses seem ok. Replaced the blown fuse and still will not start. Tried jumping the starter and nothing
Truck also threw a P1884 code.

Now I am at a complete loss as to what to do now. I suck at electronics

 

I found this after a quick search:

1884, when you can find it listed is the only fault code that has 9 different versions, here is the brief version.
Engine friction invalid
Throttle position invalid
Engine temp. invalid
Road speed invalid
Engine speed invalid
Engine torque invalid
Engine speed invalid
Engine air intake temp. invalid
Altitude shift control invalid

Take your pick. The one thing I have always found is it, 1884. always show up with another fault code and if you fix the other code, the 1884 goes away.
Let me know what you find, and by the way, that voltage is about .1 volts from to low so you might get it back up. The range is 13.6 to 14.4 volts to keep the ECU's happy.(an answer from Disco Mike)

 

Thats what my search came up with as well...but I only had the one fault code, nothing else with it. Just a blown fuse and now it will not start. Would any of those things cause a no start?
I'm taking the starter out today to bench test it and see what happens. But the bigger question is what caused the system to short in the first place?

 

Well that was easy lol....starter is fine. Starting system good. Grounds not so good.
Cleaned up two grounds, changed another and now it runs again.

 

Sorry another quick update.
Took it for another test drive and the drivetrain seems to work ok...low/high range and such. Threw the same code along with P0102. ..mass air from what I gather from Google.
The sensor is visibly dirty, sitting around for a few years I think. But I also have a K&N airfilter on it....which an online search says is not good for this truck.
Thoughts on cleaning the sensor??

 

Have never done it myself but read about it often. Much info and many opinions/recommendations on the cleaning aspect. Suggest spending some time searching here and there, then pick your antidote/poison. Recently read of a suggestion here that a physical cleaning using a swab or extremely fine brush with a cleaner may be better than drowning it a cleaner.
.......

 

PART 1 (10 days ago)
Okay... so I'm about to replace my engine in my 04 discovery.
Very excited as it's ran like **** for the past 8 mths.
I've got a well recommended mechanic that's also an enthusiast and specializes in rovers.
I've never ever had an engine replaced. I'm a bit apprehensive with spending this kind of money on a used engine.
Please share some advise, knowledge and wisdom.
The engine is said to have 90K miles? its coming from another rover he have bought (as I was close to selling mine for good usable parts).
His word is: Before replacing engine with the his great running engine... he will rebuild the top half before installing it he said a lot of mechanical jargon (new heads, new valve stem, cover, gaskets, plugs, wires, etc... $3300)
Sounds good.
Please share wisdom and experience. I'm a bit nervous as I mentally can't tolerate another mechanic "F' over" in my life.
I'm not real trusting but I need this done, so I can enjoys loving my truck again.
Any advise is needed and appreciated

Part 2 (today)
I picked up my truck today... I sounded great. Everything was done as promised.
Sounded perfect. Drove as well as you could want your rover to drive.
drove it 40 miles on interstate. pulled it over to get gas, drove around the corner to emissions, noticed oil pump light came on. car started funny (as in when a car is low on oil). I called mechanic immediately and told him the story.
He will be sending a wrecker out to retrieve vehicle. He told me I shouldn't have drove it with the oil lamp on. I told him not even start that "my fault" ****, I'm not a mechanic but I know better... He said he will fix whatever the problem is he said he'd swap out oil pump if thats the case.
He seems honest. I'm very untrusting and a bit shiity at the situation.
Although this happened. The vehicle drove excellent. But now it have indicator light on and it's ticking.
Any advise please