https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=21247

 

Send me your tele number

 

Frank4 if you have not found your problem yet, I will try to help you troubleshoot this, first thing you will need is either a multimeter or a 12 volt test light (you can get test lights pretty cheap at walmart) you will be looking at one of the plugs in the fusebox under the drivers dash for a plug with either 1 or a couple of large wires in it (size of the wire you are looking for is close to a fast food restaurant straw) the wire will be white with a red stripe on it. you will check for voltage on this wire while the ignition switch is in the crank position. if your using a test light clip one end of the light on a good ground and probe the wire at the connector, if your using a meter do the same thing and set the meter for DC volts. if you have power here your switch should be fine, if not I would take the plastic cover off the steering column and check the contacts at the back of the switch itself. let me know if you have problems or if this doesn't resolve your issue.

 

Thanks chris I will do this and post my results ASAP!

 

The voltage at the battery is reading -12.6 and the voltage on the white and red wire is
-12.3 . These look like good numbers to me and i think the ignition switch has been eliminated as the problem , does anyone disagree?

 

Oh, and any suggestions on what should be looked at next would be great!

 

you get 12 volts on the red/white wire while in the crank position only?

if this is the case then I would next check power at the starter relay in the under hood fuse box there will be 2 terminals to check for power on one will be the terminal that gets power for the starter solenoid and one will be power at the contact that opens and closes the relay should be pins 85 or 86 and 30 or 87 (check the bottom of the relay) if you are not sure which relay you need or how to test the contacts let me know and I will try to find some more info for you when I get home

 

Correct,only in the crank position. When I am checking these contacts I am assuming that the key would need to be in the crank position? I just looked under the hood saw R1-R14. R1-R4 have the designations that you described. R1 has a gas pump symbol , R2 has a circle with "SM" in it, R3 has a windshield, R4 has a radiator with a fan. I think you are talking about R2. Am I correct? Which numbers(85, 86, 30, 87) do I test together? And do I test them with the relay slightly pulled out so I can squeeze the probes in or do I take the relay out and test the female relay plug?


You have been a great help Chris!

 

wow you are making this easy on me! yes R2 is the starter relay, pull the relay out and test the female plug only it will have either 4 or 5 pins: 3 vertical and 1 (maybe 2) horizontal the 2 vertical on the sides are the coil contacts (85 on the left and 86 on the right) one of these should energize while the ignition switch is in the crank position. the other vertical pin is 30 (the one in the middle) and this pin will connect inside the relay to the horizontal pin which is 87 (if there are 2 horizontal pins it will be the one on top and the one in the middle of the socket will be ignored) either pin 30 or pin 87 will have power at all times. test all of these individually and let me know which pins have power and when.

 

Alright that sounds easy enough. I will test those shortly and post my results. You are the one making this easy! And thanks again for helping me out on this!