UPDATE

So after letting the vehicle sit for an hour or so, I walked down the street to where the car was sitting.
It started up just fine.
So I drove it home.
I conclude that this is another sign of a bad CKP


Thanks for the explanation of "testbook"

Are there any options other than the dealer?

Is "testbook" the only way to "talk" to the car to
change some parameters in the ECU and other modules?

I have an "Actron autoscanner Plus CP9180" that I have used to detect, clear and analize the vehicle.
Not sure this would do what RAVE states "testbook" needs to be done when you replace the CKP.

BTW
I appreciate any and all guidance/advice from the forum.

 

Some of the failures seem to be heat related. So when engine cools, things work. Guess you could spray it with brake cleaner or ice water to cool it off if stuck.

Still not 100% sure that you must go to dealer, because of lack of posts to that effect. It may be that changing it would get you going, just running rough, etc.

There are probably other PC programs to talk to the vehicle (not just clear codes), but would be high dollar.

The sensor is somewhat sensitive to mounting, once vehicle is safe at home might inspect sensor, even remove it and re-install. From RAVE description, this would not have to be too loose to cause trouble. Or bad cable connection for same.

If you changed unit, and got it to run, and had to go to dealer, time charge would be less than them doing the whole job. When shopping for some one with that capability be sure to use "adaptive reset" instead of "rset computer" which most will take for clear codes.

 

Nah. I installed a used engine in mine, along with a used flywheel from a different vehicle, and had no problems.

*original flywheel reluctor wheel pieces were slightly damaged when rear 3" of camshaft was ejected from rear of engine block while cranking original engine.

 

Good, confirms my theory that shop procedures are written to maximize billable time for extra line items listed by computerized Wallet Drainer Shop Billing system, version 2.1.

 

Put the new CPS in and just start the motor, it will readjust itself. Should only be about 20 minutes to do it.

 

Not trying to steal a thread...

Is there something on the flywheel that trips the sensor, requiring it to be installed only one way on the back of the motor? I could not find anything specific in the RAVE, but that could be the problem with my salvage motor re-install...

Getting spark, and fuel, wires are correct, not running...

Sam

 

Yes. Put it back on like the book shows, pay attention to any different bolt lengths, etc.

From the RAVE:

It is vital that the CKP sensor output wires are not reversed (i.e. the connector is fitted incorrectly) as this will cause
a 3

reference or timing point for each passing tooth on the reluctor

From the shade tree:

The sensor is a reluctor style, so it does not touch the nearby moving metal object, it just picks up the "magnetic pulse" of it flying by very close. Mounting is key, needs to be in precise position, not jiggered off to the side, or the timing will be off.

 

Sruff: Did the salvage motor come with a CPS on it? If so, try swapping the CPS from your old engine. Luckily the CPS on the used engine I installed years ago came with everything still attached, and the CPS worked, because my old CPS was damaged from getting hit by the damaged reluctor.

 

The salvage motor had the sensor, so I just left it there when I installed the motor. I had to replace the flywheel as it had several teeth missing, so I'm hoping that I didn't need to have it turned a specific way related to the crank (It does not indicate so in RAVE)... That would suck. I'd have to pull the motor again! I still have the old sensor and will try it out this weekend. Thanks.

Sruff

 

The flywheel can only be installed one way due to a locating pin on the crankshaft and a hole for the pin on the flywheel.

(that is what I remembered, and verified with the junk engine and junk flywheel still in my garage)