Drowssap, I agree. I couldn't pass it up!! I have some parts I'm pretty sure I won't need. I'll put them up for sale later for cheap.

 

Any updates?

 

The process has been pretty slow. Too busy with life!

I pulled off the cats, both drive shafts, the middle muffler as per the trans pulling procedure.



I didn't take off the E brake parts. I tied them to the frame out of the way.

 

I'm very excited to see this! I would love a mtx 1 for the torque application options 2 for the coasting in neutral possibilities!

 

Conrad, if you aren't too far into it could you give me two measurements? From front of bell housing to shifter, and from front of bell housing to end of tailhousing?

 

I started disconnecting the wiring from the autobox to remove it. Talk about a major pain in the butt. I couldn't get a good grip on the wires on top of the trans to pop them off. So I figured I need to remove the center coonsole. Might as well do that.

I started taking the top parts off. Including the window and seat switches. Refer to LR D2 repair manual for details on the switchs.
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You really have to pull hard up wards to get the shifter **** off.


Center console off. Now remove the 2 side heat tubes.


Here's what it'll look like with the shifter off.


Here's what the shifter looks like removed. Not much to it. The other end of the cable was taken off the XYZ switch on the side of autobox.

 

Now the fun stuff. Drill out the aluminum pop rivets on the center cover plate. This plate will now be in the way of the manual stick. Also, take the bolts out the transfer case shifter.



With the plate removed you can now reach the top of the trans and disconnect any remaining wires from the trans and transfer case.



With plate completely removed you can see the top of the transfer case. Disconnect anything else that needs taken off the auto. Like the XYZ switch connector and the other connector thing.



This is one of the E clips I was trying to reach from under the truck. I couldn't reach it until I removed the console plate. I'm not sure if it really needed removed since the whole autobox and transfer case were coming out as 1 assembly.

 

All right now to get the autobox and transfer case assembly removed. I took off the 4 bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate. They aren't easy. You have to rotate the motor so the bolt heads align with the hold in the engine. See D2 repair manual for procedures.

I then removed nuts on the trans and transfer case supports in the rear. I took out the lower bell housing bolts off the motor.

HERE IS THE IMPORTANT TRICK I FOUND OUT. Jack the trans really high so you can remove both rear trans mounts and brackets. It's a tight squeeze so I took them both completely off. Next step lower the trans/transfer case very low because you need room to remove the TOP!!! bell housing bolts.

You'll need a very long extension about 2 feet long. I bought some at Harbor Freight with a coupon. I used a 13mm socket for the bell housing bolts. Let the socket and extension slide in the groove of the bell housing. It'll run right in the bolt head. Use your newly made access hole in the center console to reach the top bell housing bolts.

Now remove trans by pull it towards the rear to clear everything. The torque converter will fall out. I don't know how you can hold it while your taking out the trans.

I borrowed a motorcyle jack from a friend. It made it a lot easier to lower it out


In this picture you can see the top bell housing grooves to help take out the bolts.


View from under the truck with the trans out and the console cover plate removed.

 

Just some interesting pictures.

XYZ Switch


Taking the bolts out the transfer case.

 

Taking off the auto flex plate. You'll need a flywheel lock, a strong allen wrench and a breaker bar.

I have a VW air cooled flywheel lock. It worked perfect. This is would be used on a Beetle or Bus engine.


I bolted up the flywheel lock, turned the flex plate until it one of the teeth caught the flywheel lock. Put on the allen wrench and a helper bar. The came right out.


Here are the parts off. The flywheel is held on with a dowel pin and rust. So it shouldn't fall off but be careful.


Back of the motor with the flex plate removed.