Also, found another problem. Since the D2 uses cables to lock and unlock the transfer case. The D1 transfer lever mount is in the way. I'll have to cut that off.



Closer look at the D1 lever mount.

 

The crank position sensor needs to "replaced" for the Bosch V8 manual flywheel. I say "replaced" which really means the spacer is the only thing different. I'm reusing my old sensor but using the new manual spacer. If you know of a machine shop. Have them make you one. It'll be cheaper then the $100 price tag on a new sensor. The space is made of aluminum and has the hold the sensor perpendicular so taking a hack saw to the auto spacer might not be a good idea.



The auto and manual spacers both have a little lip to help center it.

 

I ordered a D1 LUK clutch kit. The kit comes with a clutch disc centering tool. Which is nice to have. None of the British kits come with one. I went with a LUK instead of BrtiPart clutch becuase I've used LUK clutches in the past and they're strong and will hold up in my opinion.



Part number 19-035


Here is the pressure plate on the D2 flywheel wheel. Fits perfect!! Even the dowels on the flywheel are in the exact same position.

 

Nice!

 

Installed the flywheel and clutch. I used grade 8 bolts for each. The flywheel and clutch plate is pretty heavy so take your time.

Here are the bolts and sizes. I bought them at the local Advance Auto Parts. Ask for the bolts in the back. These aren't on the shelves in the front.


Flywheel installed. Torque the bolts to 60 lbs/ft or 80 Nm with some blue thread locker. You can see the flywheel lock in the picture which really helps torque the bolts down.


You will have to buy and install the output shaft pilot bearing. It's a regular D1 bushing. It taps right in.


Close up of bushing and bolts used for the flywheel.


Next is the clutch disc. The clutch disc alignment tool was too long. So I cut a little off so it'll align the disc correctly.


Clutch installed. I torqued the bolts hand tight with blue thread locker.


Side view.


Also, installed the new throw out bearing, clutch arm pivot bushing and clutch arm support clip. The kit does not include the little plastic retainer clips for the throw out bearing. You'll have to order one of those, too.

 

In the last page of the forum I showed how the D1 transfer case shifter housing was in the way of D2 cable driven transfer case shifter. So I took the shifter housing off the D1 trans and worked on cutting it off.

This part of the shifter plate needs to be cut off.


Bottom view of shifter that needs cut off.


I used a cut wheel on a 4 inch grinder. It cut it off like butter!!


Here's the shifter installed back on the trans.

 

Alright. We are getting closer and closer to final install of the trans. First thing I did was cut off the trans oil cooler curved pipes until it the pipes strightened out. I will run rubber hoses to the original oil cooler to the manual trans cooler pump later.

 

Here we go with the final install of the manual transmission. All I can say is get a friend to help. It's a heavy bugger!! The toughest part is getting the trans output shaft to go into the clutch plate. The clutch kit comes with some spline lube. Make sure you use it on the splines!!! We had the trans lined up but could not get the trans to seat. Once the bellhousing is close enough to get some bolts in. Use the bolts to bring the bellousing and engine together. Again it was a bear!!!!

So now the trans is in and anger has subsided!! haha!! I have 2 trans mounts to test and see which one fits best. Here's what I found out the TD5 D2's uses an R380 trans but with different gearing and bellhousing BUT the trans mounts are in the same location. So I talked to Ashcroft Trans and he sent me a TD5 mount to test out on my truck.

Here are the 2 mounts. Mount on the left TD5 and on the right is the D1 "modified" mount.


TD5 mount in the bottom. D1 mount on top.


Modification to the D1 mount to make it work on a D2.


Closer look at the D2 TD5 mount

 

Here's my final decision. I used the TD5 mount. It fit better then the D1 modified mount. Either would have worked but the TD5 mount looked the best and was easier to bolt in.

 

Next I installed the hydraulic clutch line and parts. I took my old master and slave cylinders with me to NAPA. They found 2 adapters that will work. They both have metric bubble flares at different sizes. NAPA didn't give me the bubble flare sizes for the adapters. But they both go into a standard 3/8-24 NPT inverted flare brake line. So I bought the 2 adapters and 51 inch brake brake line with English fittings.

Brass adapter in the master cylinder with standard brake line installed.


Slave cylinder installed with adapter. I bent the metal line in a waving motion above the frame rail to give the line some "flex" when the motor moves. Then bent it as close as I could pointing up. I used extra washers for the mounting bolts because the bolts were too long. They're M8-1.25 bolts.


You can see in this picture the brake line seemed pretty close to the exhaust down pipe.


So I installed the cats on loosely to see how close it was. It wasn't bad.


But I didn't want the cats to cook the slave cylinder. So I cut up an old pie pan and made a heat shield for the slave cylinder.


I'm using one of the extra threaded bolt holes on the engine to hang it. I bent it to fit around with some spacing.