I have been a LR tech for a longtime and have alwaysed bled these vehicles this way:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...9-180-a-68428/

Try this and see what happens. I know that it is not what the RAVE says but trust me this way works

 

I will use your method this time around and see what she does.

 

Good day everyone,

I finally have an update... Not necessarily a solution yet but making some progress. I finally put everything back together and got the truck into a running state. Runs good and sounds good. This time instead of trusting the scan gauge to tell me the trucks temperature I used a IR gun and pointed it to the top inlet corner of the rad, the top black tube that feeds the thermostat and the bottom corner of the rad where the outlet is.

I let the engine get up to 180 deg at the top left inlet corner of the rad and the outlet side was around 80 deg. Not sure how those temps compare to some of you guys (maybe someone could check at operating temp). This took the better part of 10 mins to get up to this temp. Now I know all of you say use the scan gauge and I have up until this test this time... In the past when I didn't have an IR gun I would start to cringe when the scan gauge would indicate a temp of 210 deg or higher and shut everything down. This being said I starting to think my temp sensor may be faulty because it would only take 2-3 mins to get to 180 deg on the scan gauge and the rad would be icy cold and so on. All of this would make sense as I did replace the temp sensor in this whole process of my overhaul.

Once I complete this test I checked the scan gauge for fun to see what it read. It read 237 deg. I know that’s really high but is it possible that it could read 237 and the top of the rad be only 180 deg? This is why I am starting to think the sensor is faulty. Not to mention it would get up tot 180 deg in a mater of minutes and still have an icy cold rad.

As a side note I performed an exhaust gas test and didn't see any change in colour.


With this new info maybe some of you may have some advice.

Also, I know the gauge on the dash is highly inaccurate but does the same sensor provide the temp to it and the computer?

 

I just ordered a new genuine LR Temp sensor to start but would still appreciate some input on my findings.

Thanks again

 

too many variables with ir readings, for me. I would add (and I have one installed) a hose section with sender and its own gauge. cheap glowshift set up, on mine.

 

Quick update,

New temp sensor just arrived today, should be installing tomorrow and reporting back the results.

I also went and did a quick check tonight to confirm my original thoughts(coolant temp reading high) using an alternative method. Using the scan gauge while the car was off and engine was bone cold I confirmed that the MAF was reading 50 deg while the coolant temp sensor was reading 83 deg. Please note that actual air temp is aprox 50deg right now.

This all points to confirm that my coolant temp sensor was the problem the whole time. The new one I installed during my front cover overhaul was inaccurate to the tune of 30-35deg high.

Look forward to updating the results tomorrow with the new sensor in place and put this one to bed.

 

Great news everyone! The truck is now up and running good! Thanks to all that helped, the solution to my problem as a new temp sensor. The new one I put in during my front cover overhaul was defective and reading 30-40deg warmer then it should have.

 

Great to hear. Too bad all high temp readings weren't caused by that.

 

Great to hear. Who made the faulty temp sensor?

 

Sooooooooo hard not to resist, then again why not, I think it was Chin or his brother Xao that made it...