Discovery II - 35's
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: Pasadena, CA
Discovery II - 35's
I have done several searches and have not found a definitive answer about what it takes to make a DII ready for 35's. A bit of background: I have been running 255/85/16 for roughly two years with ARB's front and rear. I have gotten to the point where i have maxed out my rigs (probably more my driving skill but i still push the rig). I am consistently running 3.5-4.0 trails. At this point i am ready to start taking the hard lines. Most of the guys that i run with have Di's with 35's. I have considered selling my DII and starting over but i have a ton of cash sunk into my current set up plus i know that it has been taken care of.
The upgrades that i have so far: ARB's front and rear, Great Basin HD axles rear, GB driveline with ujoints front. Recently i won a set of Fox Shocks (currently have the OME 2.5 lift with HD springs and shocks) that would go nicely with extra lift and 35's.
Question is what else do i need to run the 35's? I know that i will need another 1-2 inches of lift, brake lines, gears (currently run stock gears with the ARB's).
Once the upgrade has taken place i am still longer than the DI and have the inferior suspension set up so will i be at a huge disadvantage? A list of additional part (suggestions of manufactures/fab shops in So Cal) would be greatly appreciated. Also, thoughts about a built 2004 DII vs a built DI would be appreciated. I am really on the fence here.
ETA - I made it through this run, http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=yIQMZKaPOX4 , but was not able to take the tough lines due to clearance. Next year at this time i want to be able to take all of the hard lines.....
The upgrades that i have so far: ARB's front and rear, Great Basin HD axles rear, GB driveline with ujoints front. Recently i won a set of Fox Shocks (currently have the OME 2.5 lift with HD springs and shocks) that would go nicely with extra lift and 35's.
Question is what else do i need to run the 35's? I know that i will need another 1-2 inches of lift, brake lines, gears (currently run stock gears with the ARB's).
Once the upgrade has taken place i am still longer than the DI and have the inferior suspension set up so will i be at a huge disadvantage? A list of additional part (suggestions of manufactures/fab shops in So Cal) would be greatly appreciated. Also, thoughts about a built 2004 DII vs a built DI would be appreciated. I am really on the fence here.
ETA - I made it through this run, http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=yIQMZKaPOX4 , but was not able to take the tough lines due to clearance. Next year at this time i want to be able to take all of the hard lines.....
Last edited by Sbonomo; May 21, 2012 at 11:15 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 107
From: Denver, Colorado
Need more specific information, which OME coils, by part numbers?
To listen to your engines RPM's you are killing your tranny while running 3:54 gears, so that has to change.
I am not sure why you think 35"s will be the cure all to your driving skills? We all drag a little once in a while, that is normal.
I have run the Rubicon, High Sierras, Death Valley Moab and Colorado trails running on 32"s and only really gotten stuck 2 times.
If you think a little more tire will help then run 285's which are 33's, even there, you will need some 4:11's or more, lockers to replace your weak factory 2 spider gears diffs.
May want to look at the RTE site and what they recommend for 33" plus lifts to give you more articulation.
As for running with the D1's, it is not your trucks fault if you can't stay up with them, sure they have a slightly shorter wheel base but your truck has some pluses on them so stay with it.
I would also suggest you throw on a good set of "QT" diffs guards and reinforce the ARB bumper mounts before you tear them off cause they are poorly designed and weak.
Unrelated, you might also check and see if you have an engine oil cooler, if not, I would add one cause this sort of driving requires one to help keep your engine for getting toasted.
To listen to your engines RPM's you are killing your tranny while running 3:54 gears, so that has to change.
I am not sure why you think 35"s will be the cure all to your driving skills? We all drag a little once in a while, that is normal.
I have run the Rubicon, High Sierras, Death Valley Moab and Colorado trails running on 32"s and only really gotten stuck 2 times.
If you think a little more tire will help then run 285's which are 33's, even there, you will need some 4:11's or more, lockers to replace your weak factory 2 spider gears diffs.
May want to look at the RTE site and what they recommend for 33" plus lifts to give you more articulation.
As for running with the D1's, it is not your trucks fault if you can't stay up with them, sure they have a slightly shorter wheel base but your truck has some pluses on them so stay with it.
I would also suggest you throw on a good set of "QT" diffs guards and reinforce the ARB bumper mounts before you tear them off cause they are poorly designed and weak.
Unrelated, you might also check and see if you have an engine oil cooler, if not, I would add one cause this sort of driving requires one to help keep your engine for getting toasted.
Thread Starter
|
Three Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: Pasadena, CA
Need more specific information, which OME coils, by part numbers?
To listen to your engines RPM's you are killing your tranny while running 3:54 gears, so that has to change.
I am not sure why you think 35"s will be the cure all to your driving skills? We all drag a little once in a while, that is normal.
I have run the Rubicon, High Sierras, Death Valley Moab and Colorado trails running on 32"s and only really gotten stuck 2 times.
If you think a little more tire will help then run 285's which are 33's, even there, you will need some 4:11's or more, lockers to replace your weak factory 2 spider gears diffs.
May want to look at the RTE site and what they recommend for 33" plus lifts to give you more articulation.
As for running with the D1's, it is not your trucks fault if you can't stay up with them, sure they have a slightly shorter wheel base but your truck has some pluses on them so stay with it.
I would also suggest you throw on a good set of "QT" diffs guards and reinforce the ARB bumper mounts before you tear them off cause they are poorly designed and weak.
Unrelated, you might also check and see if you have an engine oil cooler, if not, I would add one cause this sort of driving requires one to help keep your engine for getting toasted.
To listen to your engines RPM's you are killing your tranny while running 3:54 gears, so that has to change.
I am not sure why you think 35"s will be the cure all to your driving skills? We all drag a little once in a while, that is normal.
I have run the Rubicon, High Sierras, Death Valley Moab and Colorado trails running on 32"s and only really gotten stuck 2 times.
If you think a little more tire will help then run 285's which are 33's, even there, you will need some 4:11's or more, lockers to replace your weak factory 2 spider gears diffs.
May want to look at the RTE site and what they recommend for 33" plus lifts to give you more articulation.
As for running with the D1's, it is not your trucks fault if you can't stay up with them, sure they have a slightly shorter wheel base but your truck has some pluses on them so stay with it.
I would also suggest you throw on a good set of "QT" diffs guards and reinforce the ARB bumper mounts before you tear them off cause they are poorly designed and weak.
Unrelated, you might also check and see if you have an engine oil cooler, if not, I would add one cause this sort of driving requires one to help keep your engine for getting toasted.
I guess my question is centered around what else I would need to fully take advantage of the 35’s from a suspension and set up stand point. Thanks
