Discovery II Head Gaskets -- Not OEM
#1
#3
#6
I just ordered the "normal" lucky8 kit that is on the website.. Should be fine. I thought about the ARP hardware but I had read a few posts about the hardware causing some issues with the block. Granted, its probably not true (aka internet BS) but really i'm just to cheap to spend the $130 for the kit.
I figure when the time comes for a new motor that i'll go that route and do things properly
I figure when the time comes for a new motor that i'll go that route and do things properly
#9
If you are using studs and not bolts the studs don't need any extreme torquing into the block, a pure guess is around 40-50 lb/ft max. The head nuts need the correct torquing down though but be sure to lube the nuts and washers first.
I'm afraid I can't remember the exact torque settings but I'm sure they aren't OTT for the head bolts but it needs a nominal amount of lube on the bolt threads and shafts but only lightly wiped on, contrary to popular belief, but only on the threads and shafts as you don't want hydraulic lock pressures in the block, assembly lube is good or failing this use clean engine oil. Clean out the block threads well before assembly using some brake cleaner or cellulose thinners and blow out with an airline. Hope this helps you.
PS: Speak to Sixpack as he is currently refurbishing his engine carefully and I'm sure he has the correct torque settings to hand.
#10
Hi Collie
If you are using studs and not bolts the studs don't need any extreme torquing into the block, a pure guess is around 40-50 lb/ft max. The head nuts need the correct torquing down though but be sure to lube the nuts and washers first.
I'm afraid I can't remember the exact torque settings but I'm sure they aren't OTT for the head bolts but it needs a nominal amount of lube on the bolt threads and shafts but only lightly wiped on, contrary to popular belief, but only on the threads and shafts as you don't want hydraulic lock pressures in the block, assembly lube is good or failing this use clean engine oil. Clean out the block threads well before assembly using some brake cleaner or cellulose thinners and blow out with an airline. Hope this helps you.
PS: Speak to Sixpack as he is currently refurbishing his engine carefully and I'm sure he has the correct torque settings to hand.
If you are using studs and not bolts the studs don't need any extreme torquing into the block, a pure guess is around 40-50 lb/ft max. The head nuts need the correct torquing down though but be sure to lube the nuts and washers first.
I'm afraid I can't remember the exact torque settings but I'm sure they aren't OTT for the head bolts but it needs a nominal amount of lube on the bolt threads and shafts but only lightly wiped on, contrary to popular belief, but only on the threads and shafts as you don't want hydraulic lock pressures in the block, assembly lube is good or failing this use clean engine oil. Clean out the block threads well before assembly using some brake cleaner or cellulose thinners and blow out with an airline. Hope this helps you.
PS: Speak to Sixpack as he is currently refurbishing his engine carefully and I'm sure he has the correct torque settings to hand.
I am going to make Thread chasers, and clean with brake cleaner. I am also hoping the pistons and surface are not too dirty. I don't have air, but am going to get canned air, and also use a shop vac.
The term hand tight, does that mean just get it in until it stops or to use a socket and had tighten it as hard as I can?
I am also going to clean the rest of the bolt holes, and got new bolts for the lower intake as well. Should I soak those in oil?
When do you use threadlocker?