Discovery II Talk about the Land Rover Discovery II within.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Discovery II Head Gaskets -- Not OEM

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 2, 2018 | 02:02 PM
  #1  
cybercop's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 38
From: North Georgia
Default Discovery II Head Gaskets -- Not OEM

Time for a Head Gasket job.

I read on here in the past that there are some aftermarket Head Gaskets and head bolts that are super better than OEM.

Does anyone recall the name of them and the supplier?

Thanks
 
Reply
Old Apr 2, 2018 | 02:31 PM
  #2  
Jeff Blake's Avatar
Pro Wrench
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 1,617
Likes: 184
From: Lake Tahoe
Default

Elring for the head gaskets
Any head bolts are fine
 
Reply
Old Apr 2, 2018 | 02:53 PM
  #3  
CollieRover's Avatar
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,620
Likes: 313
From: Chicago
Default

I am ordering for my headgasket job, and Lucky 8 can upgrade to Elring.
 
Reply
Old Apr 2, 2018 | 02:56 PM
  #4  
mollusc's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,560
Likes: 834
From: Staten Island, NY
Default

If you're looking for better than OEM, switch to studs instead of bolts. Lucky8 can sort you out there.
 
Reply
Old Apr 3, 2018 | 10:42 AM
  #5  
cybercop's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 38
From: North Georgia
Default

Thanks, I always get my stuff from Lucky8. Ill order today
 
Reply
Old Apr 3, 2018 | 11:00 AM
  #6  
Saturnine's Avatar
Pro Wrench
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1,721
Likes: 258
From: Denver
Default

I just ordered the "normal" lucky8 kit that is on the website.. Should be fine. I thought about the ARP hardware but I had read a few posts about the hardware causing some issues with the block. Granted, its probably not true (aka internet BS) but really i'm just to cheap to spend the $130 for the kit.

I figure when the time comes for a new motor that i'll go that route and do things properly
 
Reply
Old Apr 3, 2018 | 06:10 PM
  #7  
OffroadFrance's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 5,845
Likes: 368
From: Near Bordeaux, France
Default

HG's, Victor Reinz or Elring, amongst the best. Head bolts, I always used ARP for heads and bottom end.
 
Reply
Old Apr 3, 2018 | 08:15 PM
  #8  
CollieRover's Avatar
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,620
Likes: 313
From: Chicago
Default

Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
HG's, Victor Reinz or Elring, amongst the best. Head bolts, I always used ARP for heads and bottom end.
what did you torque the arp studs to? Is it a crazy amount of torque for an Aluminum block? I am a little nervous I may damage the bolt holes if I do the Studs.
 
Reply
Old Apr 6, 2018 | 06:03 AM
  #9  
OffroadFrance's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 5,845
Likes: 368
From: Near Bordeaux, France
Default

Originally Posted by CollieRover


what did you torque the arp studs to? Is it a crazy amount of torque for an Aluminum block? I am a little nervous I may damage the bolt holes if I do the Studs.
Hi Collie

If you are using studs and not bolts the studs don't need any extreme torquing into the block, a pure guess is around 40-50 lb/ft max. The head nuts need the correct torquing down though but be sure to lube the nuts and washers first.

I'm afraid I can't remember the exact torque settings but I'm sure they aren't OTT for the head bolts but it needs a nominal amount of lube on the bolt threads and shafts but only lightly wiped on, contrary to popular belief, but only on the threads and shafts as you don't want hydraulic lock pressures in the block, assembly lube is good or failing this use clean engine oil. Clean out the block threads well before assembly using some brake cleaner or cellulose thinners and blow out with an airline. Hope this helps you.

PS: Speak to Sixpack as he is currently refurbishing his engine carefully and I'm sure he has the correct torque settings to hand.
 
Reply
Old Apr 6, 2018 | 08:14 AM
  #10  
CollieRover's Avatar
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,620
Likes: 313
From: Chicago
Default

Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
Hi Collie

If you are using studs and not bolts the studs don't need any extreme torquing into the block, a pure guess is around 40-50 lb/ft max. The head nuts need the correct torquing down though but be sure to lube the nuts and washers first.

I'm afraid I can't remember the exact torque settings but I'm sure they aren't OTT for the head bolts but it needs a nominal amount of lube on the bolt threads and shafts but only lightly wiped on, contrary to popular belief, but only on the threads and shafts as you don't want hydraulic lock pressures in the block, assembly lube is good or failing this use clean engine oil. Clean out the block threads well before assembly using some brake cleaner or cellulose thinners and blow out with an airline. Hope this helps you.

PS: Speak to Sixpack as he is currently refurbishing his engine carefully and I'm sure he has the correct torque settings to hand.
The kit says 70ft/lbs on line. I am going to buy some extra lube. The studs go hand tight into the block. I am going to use assembly lube from ARP TO do it, not loctite. I do not want to have to tighten the head down immediately.

I am going to make Thread chasers, and clean with brake cleaner. I am also hoping the pistons and surface are not too dirty. I don't have air, but am going to get canned air, and also use a shop vac.

The term hand tight, does that mean just get it in until it stops or to use a socket and had tighten it as hard as I can?

I am also going to clean the rest of the bolt holes, and got new bolts for the lower intake as well. Should I soak those in oil?

When do you use threadlocker?
 
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:09 PM.