Discovery II - Rear Hub Replacement or o ring only
The lower break pad on the rear right side of my LR is soaked.
The brake pedal goes down very far as well (that may be master cylinder - still not sure)
When I wiped the pad with paper towel it is black, so I am thinking this is not brake fluid.
I am looking to start taking it apart over the weekend.
What should I look for to determine if I need a new hub or just the o ring?
Do I need any special tools to take this off?
If I need the hub, I plan to get one from RoverLand parts for about $200, but if I can get away with just the ring I am ok with that too.
The one from Roverland says it does not have the ABS sensor. Is this as simple as moving over the one on my current hub?
Thanks
Matt
thanks
Matt
The brake pedal goes down very far as well (that may be master cylinder - still not sure)
When I wiped the pad with paper towel it is black, so I am thinking this is not brake fluid.
I am looking to start taking it apart over the weekend.
What should I look for to determine if I need a new hub or just the o ring?
Do I need any special tools to take this off?
If I need the hub, I plan to get one from RoverLand parts for about $200, but if I can get away with just the ring I am ok with that too.
The one from Roverland says it does not have the ABS sensor. Is this as simple as moving over the one on my current hub?
Thanks
Matt
thanks
Matt
Well, after wiping a brake pad it's gonna be black no matter what due to all the brake dust.
I'm not familiar with the hub disassembly, but as far as the brakes go sounds like it is indeed the master cylinder. If your not leaking brake fluid, there's no air in the system and the rubber hoses are not ballooning up, then the internal seals in the master cylinder are shot and it's time for a new one. You'll want to flush the brake lines as well, when your ready to replace it.
I'm not familiar with the hub disassembly, but as far as the brakes go sounds like it is indeed the master cylinder. If your not leaking brake fluid, there's no air in the system and the rubber hoses are not ballooning up, then the internal seals in the master cylinder are shot and it's time for a new one. You'll want to flush the brake lines as well, when your ready to replace it.
thanks for the tips. its not just break dust so i am assuming there is gear oil too. the pads on the other side are dry.
i will be taking it apart over the next few days and will report back.
thanks!
i will be taking it apart over the next few days and will report back.
thanks!
If you get into the hub assembly, go ahead and take a good look at your bearings. I would AT LEAST re-pack them (with grease, duh), if they're OK. Don't fill the entire hub center; just a heavy dose on the bearings. Clean them first, then blow with air (compressor) to get out any grit. Look for flat spots or galding. Replace them now, if you need to. Use fresh seals and double-check for fit. Remember, tighten seal nuts to "tight", then back out 1/2 to 3/4 turn. If the nuts are too tight, you will smoke the bearings.
If you get into the hub assembly, go ahead and take a good look at your bearings. I would AT LEAST re-pack them (with grease, duh), if they're OK. Don't fill the entire hub center; just a heavy dose on the bearings. Clean them first, then blow with air (compressor) to get out any grit. Look for flat spots or galding. Replace them now, if you need to. Use fresh seals and double-check for fit. Remember, tighten seal nuts to "tight", then back out 1/2 to 3/4 turn. If the nuts are too tight, you will smoke the bearings.


