DIY Gauge Pod
#11
#12
Thanks guys. I'm pleased with it overall. Now I just have to smooth it out and find a color I like.
All of this fiberglass work has gotten me thinking about making a Saudi spec grille. I'm probably going to get started on that in the next couple weeks. I'll let you know how it turns out...
All of this fiberglass work has gotten me thinking about making a Saudi spec grille. I'm probably going to get started on that in the next couple weeks. I'll let you know how it turns out...
Any chance someone could post a link about the Saudi spec grille?
Is the benefit performance/efficiency or cosmetic?
Thx,
Thomas
P.S. Great job and thanks for posting your work BTW
#13
#14
Also, I used a 30 amp relay to wire the gauge off of the headlight circuit. While I was at it, I ran a single 10 gauge power wire from the battery through the grommet where the hood release cable is routed and installed an auxiliary fuse panel under the dash. That way all of my accessories are run independently from the vehicle wiring. I have heard too many horror stories of electrical gremlins showing up after tapping the vehicle wiring. Good luck.
#15
Explain a little more please. When you used the headlight circuit, wouldn't you have to have the headlights on for the gauge to have power? Maybe yours isn't electrical and is ran by oil psi through a tube of oil? I like the idea of a seperate fuse panel. I may do that. I have my gauge ran off my cigerette lighter right now. Its a 20 amp fuse. I don't ever use it, and if I do need to charge my phone I put a switch under the dash to flick it off so I can have more volts.. lol The fuse panel and tapping of headlight circuit. How hard would that be to do on a DI??
Ill try to get some info up on the Saudi Spec Grille project soon. I have a lot of other work to do over the next week or so but I will get to the grille asap.
#16
I have done a fair amount of glass work in the past, but I would say this project is pretty simple. I would practice on something other than my truck at first to get used to how much time you have to work before the resin dries. If you ever did paper mache as a kid, this is basically the same thing but much stronger and more permanent.
After all is said and done, I probably have about $60 tied up in the gauge pod. But I have enough material left over to make more parts (such as the $400+ Saudi Spec Grille I'm about to make). It's definitely not the cheapest way to do it, but I think the clean look of the final product is worth it so that my truck stays stock looking with the features I want.
I used Bondo body filler to coat and smooth the fiberglass after the resin dried. That was key to getting a smooth, clean finish for paint. If you skimp on the sanding/paint prep, the end product will show it. Theres nothing more satisfying than making custom parts that look professional. I would recommend you give it a shot. Good luck!
Last edited by willrok13; 10-09-2011 at 11:31 AM.
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