Hi guys!

So after some time of the old lady sitting in front of the pad I finally started pulling the heads. Started around 11am this morning and stopped 6.30-ish with some small interruptions. Thank goodness I have some awesome help on my side; a friend's mechanic who's well versed in engine technique. Though he has not done this job on a Disco before, he has done plenty HG jobs in the past. Together and with Rave next to us, we are ploughing through it.

We got as far as taking the inlet manifold gasket out and LH and RH rocker. Though it wasn't sludgy, the insides were definitely more black / brown than I would like. The valley gasket was stuck and glued on with a very strong grey bonding material. I'm afraid some of that may have found its way in the engine / coolant system. Hopefully no blockage due to that!

- Short block has +/- 30K on it. Heads 120K. Have SAI.
- Going with stretch head bolts
- Got Atl. B. HG set, new thermostat, and new expansion tank cap
- Magnecor wires, Bosch Plat 4 plugs

Some questions I would like to get all of your expert opinions on below:

-1 My friend mechanic suggests getting the injectors looked at and reworked (?). What would you guys do?

-2 Heads are being resurfaced, anything else the machine shop should do with the heads?

-3 For refit of inlet manifold gasket, RAVE reads: "3. Apply sealant, Part No. STC 50550 to cylinder head and cylinder block notches." What sealant do you recommend (not LR part) and where exactly does it go?

-4 We did a wet/dry compression test on the rear 4 cylinders (because of misfires on 6 & 7). Results were higher compression of roughly 30 when tested wet on all 4 cylinders. cyl's 7 & 8 were respectively 160 & 155 dry, and 185 & 185 wet. cyl's 5 & 6 were 180 & 175 dry and 205 & 195. Anything good or bad about those numbers? The mechanic thought those were all acceptable.

-5 The belt was a bit cracked and will be replaced as well as the thermostat. Any other suggestions?

- 6 ALL gaskets go on dry right?

As always, THANKS!!

 

While heads at shop - valve seals, which should have come in your kit.

 

1. You could have them clean in a ultrasonic bath, but that’s going a little over the top.
2. Valve guide seal.
3. Form-a-gasket black RTV
4. You have almost a 25% difference between 7&8 and 5&6 that is a lot, but could easily be chalked up to the head gaskets.
5. Replace the belt.
6. I would put a thin coat of RTV on the valve cover gaskets, unless you want to tighten them at every oil change. JMO
Your already in there how about replacing all hoses and a water pump

 

Read my sticky at the top of this section regarding head gaskets and valve train noise, then inspect each piece you your valve train as suggested especially looking for wear on the lifters and cam lobes.

 

Great, thanks guys! Back at it again in about an hour. I forgot about that link in the sticky "how to's". Thanks for the reminder, will check it out right away!

Thanks!

 

Three more quick questions:

- The head bolts seem VERY tight. I don't want to break anything. Even PB blasted them last night. Do I risk breaking anything in/on the block and/or heads by applying lots of force?
- Rave says to replace the SAI adapters. Didn't get them... Is that a must do?
- Rave says to replace the rocker cover bolts... Didn't get them... Is that a must do?

(And yes, I did get the new head bolts )

 

I just started doing them on my wife's '97 today.
This was my results
Hot engine, 6 cranks each

110 - 165-130-160160-120-160-170

 

Three more quick questions:

- The head bolts seem VERY tight. I don't want to break anything. Even PB blasted them last night. Do I risk breaking anything in/on the block and/or heads by applying lots of force?
- Rave says to replace the SAI adapters. Didn't get them... Is that a must do?
- Rave says to replace the rocker cover bolts... Didn't get them... Is that a must do?

(And yes, I did get the new head bolts )

You do not have to replace the SAI adaptors unless you screw them up cumming out.

Valve cover bolts are fine to re-use.

head bolts use a 5/8 shallow impact socket with a 24 inch breaker bar, on the right rear head bolt I think you need a 4 or 6 inch extention

 

- The head bolts are tightened with a lot of force, thus much force is needed to take them off. Just make sure your socket is seated fully on the stud.
- Hell no, just be careful taking the SAI adapters off and make sure you don't cross thread them when putting them back in the head.
-Another hell no, those bolts have been re-used probably 10 million times by this forum collectively.
- Rave says you have to replace a lot of stuff you don't necessarily have to. In general though it is good to replace o-rings when it calls for it.

 

you will need a 1/4" breaker bar and a large long pipe over the breaker bar to get the head bolts off.

ONLY use a 5/8" black impact socket. Not a metric.
Tighter fit with 5/8".

Start from outer bolts and work in. Reverse of tightening diagram to get them off.

See
1997 Land Rover replace catalytic converter and head gaskets

For

Hi guys!

So after some time of the old lady sitting in front of the pad I finally started pulling the heads. Started around 11am this morning and stopped 6.30-ish with some small interruptions. Thank goodness I have some awesome help on my side; a friend's mechanic who's well versed in engine technique. Though he has not done this job on a Disco before, he has done plenty HG jobs in the past. Together and with Rave next to us, we are ploughing through it.

We got as far as taking the inlet manifold gasket out and LH and RH rocker. Though it wasn't sludgy, the insides were definitely more black / brown than I would like. The valley gasket was stuck and glued on with a very strong grey bonding material. I'm afraid some of that may have found its way in the engine / coolant system. Hopefully no blockage due to that!

- Short block has +/- 30K on it. Heads 120K. Have SAI.
- Going with stretch head bolts
- Got Atl. B. HG set, new thermostat, and new expansion tank cap
- Magnecor wires, Bosch Plat 4 plugs

Some questions I would like to get all of your expert opinions on below:

-1 My friend mechanic suggests getting the injectors looked at and reworked (?). What would you guys do?

DONT TOUCH THE INJECTORS. Don't make more issues.

-2 Heads are being resurfaced, anything else the machine shop should do with the heads?

As Savannah said - valve seals.

-3 For refit of inlet manifold gasket, RAVE reads: "3. Apply sealant, Part No. STC 50550 to cylinder head and cylinder block notches." What sealant do you recommend (not LR part) and where exactly does it go?

use non hardening Sealer.
Permatex.
Goes where the rubber seal over the lip of the engine ends and the head begins.

Junction of head and block at the end seals.

See some of these fotos

Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream







-4 We did a wet/dry compression test on the rear 4 cylinders (because of misfires on 6 & 7). Results were higher compression of roughly 30 when tested wet on all 4 cylinders. cyl's 7 & 8 were respectively 160 & 155 dry, and 185 & 185 wet. cyl's 5 & 6 were 180 & 175 dry and 205 & 195. Anything good or bad about those numbers? The mechanic thought those were all acceptable.

Don't worry about these compressions.
Retest when back together w/ new gaskets.

-5 The belt was a bit cracked and will be replaced as well as the thermostat. Any other suggestions?

Replace thermostat.

- 6 ALL gaskets go on dry right?

All gaskets dry.

Head gasket DRY.
valley DRY

for the end gaskets holding on the valley - these go UNDER the valley gasket.
Put permatex non hardening on the end of the short block on the lip ONLY.