Doing some head gaskets. Got some questions.
So I am not a Rover owner, but my friend has a 2001 Diso II with 40K mi and we think it has a head gasket leak. We still have to have the cooling system pressure tested but it has coolant coming down the back of the block and onto the bell housing and there is the wonderful funky cream in the oil (dipstick and cap). He has stopped driving it since we found that.
He is not mechanical at all. I am a good mechanic and do all my own work on my Audis but have never worked on a rover. While it seems pretty straight forward, I am big fan of forums and getting opinions so I wanted to join here and see what you guys have to say.
This is our parts list to start:
-Gasket kit
-Head Bolts
-IM Gasket
-T-stat
-Serpentine belt
-Tensioner & idlers
-Water pump
-Upper radiator hose
-Plugs and 8mm wires
I downloaded a PDF shop manual and have read through some posts on here about head gaskets but I still have a few question:
-At only 40K mi, should this thing need a new water pump? I put it in for good measure.
-Does the gasket kit include every gasket needed or are there any odds and ends needed?...EM & IM?
-Is a Valley Pan Gasket and the IM Gasket the same thing?
-Go with OE or aftermarket parts?
-Are there any special LR tools needed?
-This engine has the SAI, manual says to remove the injector adapters and replace them, is that really necessary for a head gasket job?
-Do the EMs HAVE to come off or can you just disconnect the DP?
-Any other tips/trick from those who have done this?
Also, I could not find any step by step DIY pictures on here. I will take some as I go and do a write up. Tell me where to post it.
Thanks,
Chris
He is not mechanical at all. I am a good mechanic and do all my own work on my Audis but have never worked on a rover. While it seems pretty straight forward, I am big fan of forums and getting opinions so I wanted to join here and see what you guys have to say.
This is our parts list to start:
-Gasket kit
-Head Bolts
-IM Gasket
-T-stat
-Serpentine belt
-Tensioner & idlers
-Water pump
-Upper radiator hose
-Plugs and 8mm wires
I downloaded a PDF shop manual and have read through some posts on here about head gaskets but I still have a few question:
-At only 40K mi, should this thing need a new water pump? I put it in for good measure.
-Does the gasket kit include every gasket needed or are there any odds and ends needed?...EM & IM?
-Is a Valley Pan Gasket and the IM Gasket the same thing?
-Go with OE or aftermarket parts?
-Are there any special LR tools needed?
-This engine has the SAI, manual says to remove the injector adapters and replace them, is that really necessary for a head gasket job?
-Do the EMs HAVE to come off or can you just disconnect the DP?
-Any other tips/trick from those who have done this?
Also, I could not find any step by step DIY pictures on here. I will take some as I go and do a write up. Tell me where to post it.
Thanks,
Chris
Last edited by turbos4audi; Nov 27, 2009 at 11:23 AM.
download the RAVE manual its the workshop manual for your friends truck. it will show step by step how to do it. you should look at the HG kit from atlantic british and make sure to use new bolts when puttint it back together. i would make sure to get it pressure tested before you do the HG it could be a number of other things that tend to leak on our trucks.
+1 get the HG kit from Atlantic British and get new head bolts. Skip the water pump at that mileage. Get magnacor 8mm wires from Apex Performance. Since you have coolant in your oil I would say it is either the head gaskets or the valley gasket. Have the cylinder heads machined also.
-At only 40K mi, should this thing need a new water pump? I put it in for good measure. It shouldn't.
-Does the gasket kit include every gasket needed or are there any odds and ends needed?...EM & IM? Kit has it all. Get the heads checked too.
-Is a Valley Pan Gasket and the IM Gasket the same thing? No.
-Go with OE or aftermarket parts? Atlantic British offers OE.
-Are there any special LR tools needed? Nope. I made my own for removing the crankshaft pulley. (replaced the oil seal)
-This engine has the SAI, manual says to remove the injector adapters and replace them, is that really necessary for a head gasket job? I didn't replace mine.
-Do the EMs HAVE to come off or can you just disconnect the DP? Not really, just disconnect and use new EM gaskets.
-Any other tips/trick from those who have done this? Fairly straightforward from the manual.
Rey
DII2001LE 65k
head gaskets, brakes, timing cover gasket, crankshaft seal gasket, water pump gasket, oil pan seal, tranny pan seal/filter, serpentine belt, t-stat. 60K service.
To do: u joints.
-Does the gasket kit include every gasket needed or are there any odds and ends needed?...EM & IM? Kit has it all. Get the heads checked too.
-Is a Valley Pan Gasket and the IM Gasket the same thing? No.
-Go with OE or aftermarket parts? Atlantic British offers OE.
-Are there any special LR tools needed? Nope. I made my own for removing the crankshaft pulley. (replaced the oil seal)
-This engine has the SAI, manual says to remove the injector adapters and replace them, is that really necessary for a head gasket job? I didn't replace mine.
-Do the EMs HAVE to come off or can you just disconnect the DP? Not really, just disconnect and use new EM gaskets.
-Any other tips/trick from those who have done this? Fairly straightforward from the manual.
Rey
DII2001LE 65k
head gaskets, brakes, timing cover gasket, crankshaft seal gasket, water pump gasket, oil pan seal, tranny pan seal/filter, serpentine belt, t-stat. 60K service.
To do: u joints.
Does the crank pulley have to come off for a head gasket job?
The only really tricky part of the job is getting the viscous fan off. You need a 36mm wrench. Your choices are the Ford clutch fan tool from autozone (rent or buy) or Northern tool also has a 36 mm wrench for cheap. You may need to construct a spanner of some sort to get it off.
The only really tricky part of the job is getting the viscous fan off. You need a 36mm wrench. Your choices are the Ford clutch fan tool from autozone (rent or buy) or Northern tool also has a 36 mm wrench for cheap. You may need to construct a spanner of some sort to get it off.
No it is not that easy, the holding tool has holes that go over the bolts in the pulley:
http://shop.difflock.com/viscous-wrench-p-97.html
Here is how I did it:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=26935
http://shop.difflock.com/viscous-wrench-p-97.html
Here is how I did it:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=26935


