Door lock actuator - anyone tried to repair??
#1
Door lock actuator - anyone tried to repair??
My both front Door lock actuator is acting up. passenger side locks but does not unlock. Driverside started the same.
Has anyone tried to repair? does anyone have 2 for sale?
I need to weigh in to see if this can be fixed and what kind of replacement parts i may have to get.
Thanks
Has anyone tried to repair? does anyone have 2 for sale?
I need to weigh in to see if this can be fixed and what kind of replacement parts i may have to get.
Thanks
#2
Going to keep this updated:
My front driverside actuator just failed last night and my rear door has been dead for a bit. I'm going to go ahead and attempt to repair the solenoid in the actuator to see if I can't get it to work again, hopefully I can finish my Range Rover's water pump in time to start.
Again, I'll keep this updated and post pictures of the process (of course once I figure out how).
My front driverside actuator just failed last night and my rear door has been dead for a bit. I'm going to go ahead and attempt to repair the solenoid in the actuator to see if I can't get it to work again, hopefully I can finish my Range Rover's water pump in time to start.
Again, I'll keep this updated and post pictures of the process (of course once I figure out how).
#5
OK, looks like an easy fix!
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-new-one-3375/
Especially see post #25
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-new-one-3375/
Especially see post #25
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User (08-17-2017)
#7
at a minimum you need to unbolt the window frame and pull up enough to remove the actuator. On all 4 doors thé actuator is in between the frame and door.
#8
You can do it without removing the window frame completely but save your self the hassle and just pull the window frame out. The following is from memory so some details might be off. And i did it on the passenger doors (back doors?).
-Remove 3 philips head screws from door panel
-Take body panel tool (or flat screwdriver) and pop the door panel out
-Disconect window switch, speaker, and tweeter wires(if optioned), the tweeter wire is held by a small dimple that prevents the conector from sliding out, use a small pick or screw driver.
-Remove plastic cover ( for best results use heat gun to soften the glue).
-Remove the Torx bit screws(T35?) from both edges of the doors. Plus a 10mm that attaches to the window frame, "third beam".
-squeeze the frame together (you might want to crack the window before hand) and pull it out.
-Remove bolts holding the actuator and disconnect the inside and outside door handle linkage. You will have to reach in and "rotate" the plastic conector (green) to release one of the linkage from the actuator, and don't lose the small linkage piece for the outside handle.
-Remove actuator.
-Remove 3 philips head screws from door panel
-Take body panel tool (or flat screwdriver) and pop the door panel out
-Disconect window switch, speaker, and tweeter wires(if optioned), the tweeter wire is held by a small dimple that prevents the conector from sliding out, use a small pick or screw driver.
-Remove plastic cover ( for best results use heat gun to soften the glue).
-Remove the Torx bit screws(T35?) from both edges of the doors. Plus a 10mm that attaches to the window frame, "third beam".
-squeeze the frame together (you might want to crack the window before hand) and pull it out.
-Remove bolts holding the actuator and disconnect the inside and outside door handle linkage. You will have to reach in and "rotate" the plastic conector (green) to release one of the linkage from the actuator, and don't lose the small linkage piece for the outside handle.
-Remove actuator.
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JUKE179r (08-28-2017)
#10
Tito is right on, that way I found easiest and quickest, had a helper lift the window frame up and from there it was only a couple of quirky steps fishing it out from its little hole. If I'm being honest the whole process is very easy, if not a bit tedious (maybe because it was 95F out?)..
Going to take apart the actuator tomorrow and see what motor to source, for durability and longevity preferably, along with a solid supplier so future readers can still get them.
Going to take apart the actuator tomorrow and see what motor to source, for durability and longevity preferably, along with a solid supplier so future readers can still get them.
The following users liked this post:
JUKE179r (08-28-2017)