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Frank4 says in this post from 3+ years ago that he was able to remove wafers. I PM'd Frank but he hasn't replied. Frank! Where are you!?!
Hey man. Sorry, just now seeing this. I remember doing this job but unfortunately I don't recall how I got to the waffers. I do recall having the door handle assembly in so many pieces that I'd never get it back together. Only advice I can offer is to break it down as far as you can, if it looks like it can be removed, remove it.
Well, I guess I'm going to have to throw in the towel on this problem, at least for now.
I know Abran said to take it to an old school locksmith but I honestly don't think there's any way he'd have more luck than I getting it apart. There was more I was tempted to try but that would have risked breaking it and I couldn't afford to take that risk. When I get a little time I might pull a door handle from a donor truck and go at it more aggressively. If I break a donor truck handle in the interest of science it's not as big a deal. Sadly I had an extra driver door handle lying around for a couple years but I now can't find it.
My son leaves to go back to college tonight so I'm out of time. The good news is that in addition to the keyless entry fob that works fine I successfully hacked the system so that the truck can be unlocked without a key in the event the keyless entry stops working. That's detailed in another thread I started early this week.
My son was back in town last weekend with the Rover so I got a chance to rebuild the lock.
In the six weeks since I last wrote here I got a driver door handle from a donor truck and figured out how to take it apart.
It turns out that after the screw and the gasket are removed the next trick is to release the black plastic cover by first prying off the end and then sliding a flat blade screwdriver or something similar along each of the two edges to release the tabs that hold the cover on the handle assembly. Then remove the springs, paying close attention to how they are oriented when installed.
The next step is to remove the retainer clip and retainer ring. Once that is done insert the key in the tumbler and slide the tumbler out of the cylinder.
Once the tumbler is removed you can remove the key and begin removing the wafers. There are eight wafers in all, four on each side, plus another thicker piece at the end, which a locksmith today told me is called a retainer wafer. (That is the part that was broken in the case of my lock.)
I could have replaced or just removed the retainer wafer (if that's what it's called) and called it a day but with the lock this far apart I decided to go ahead and remove the wafers and give everything a good cleaning.
Each wafer and the retainer wafer has a tiny spring paired with it. Be careful to not lose any of the springs and be very careful to keep track of which wafer goes in which slot. I just laid them out in the order they were removed, much as I did with the pushrods when i replaced the headgaskets.
I used carb cleaner to get rid of the old lube and dirt. Once that was done and everything was back together I sprayed the assembly liberally with silicone lube and reassembled everything.
I have no idea what caused the retainer wafer to break, but when I first removed the door handle in August and started poking around the missing part of it fell out of the door handle assembly.
My son was back in town last weekend with the Rover so I got a chance to rebuild the lock.
In the six weeks since I last wrote here I got a driver door handle from a donor truck and figured out how to take it apart.
It turns out that after the screw and the gasket are removed the next trick is to release the black plastic cover by first prying off the end and then sliding a flat blade screwdriver or something similar along each of the two edges to release the tabs that hold the cover on the handle assembly. Then remove the springs, paying close attention to how they are oriented when installed.
The next step is to remove the retainer clip and retainer ring. Once that is done insert the key in the tumbler and slide the tumbler out of the cylinder.
Once the tumbler is removed you can remove the key and begin removing the wafers. There are eight wafers in all, four on each side, plus another thicker piece at the end, which a locksmith today told me is called a retainer wafer. (That is the part that was broken in the case of my lock.)
I could have replaced or just removed the retainer wafer (if that's what it's called) and called it a day but with the lock this far apart I decided to go ahead and remove the wafers and give everything a good cleaning.
Each wafer and the retainer wafer has a tiny spring paired with it. Be careful to not lose any of the springs and be very careful to keep track of which wafer goes in which slot. I just laid them out in the order they were removed, much as I did with the pushrods when i replaced the headgaskets.
I used carb cleaner to get rid of the old lube and dirt. Once that was done and everything was back together I sprayed the assembly liberally with silicone lube and reassembled everything.
I have no idea what caused the retainer wafer to break but when I first removed the door handle in August and started poking around the missing part of it fell out of the door handle assembly.
thank you SO much !i have the exact same issue on my 2001 D 2. Same retainer wafer . Same problem with disassembly. And same problem finding ANY relevant info. U may have just saved me a nervous breakdown!
My son was back in town last weekend with the Rover so I got a chance to rebuild the lock.
In the six weeks since I last wrote here I got a driver door handle from a donor truck and figured out how to take it apart.
It turns out that after the screw and the gasket are removed the next trick is to release the black plastic cover by first prying off the end and then sliding a flat blade screwdriver or something similar along each of the two edges to release the tabs that hold the cover on the handle assembly. Then remove the springs, paying close attention to how they are oriented when installed.
The next step is to remove the retainer clip and retainer ring. Once that is done insert the key in the tumbler and slide the tumbler out of the cylinder.
Once the tumbler is removed you can remove the key and begin removing the wafers. There are eight wafers in all, four on each side, plus another thicker piece at the end, which a locksmith today told me is called a retainer wafer. (That is the part that was broken in the case of my lock.)
I could have replaced or just removed the retainer wafer (if that's what it's called) and called it a day but with the lock this far apart I decided to go ahead and remove the wafers and give everything a good cleaning.
Each wafer and the retainer wafer has a tiny spring paired with it. Be careful to not lose any of the springs and be very careful to keep track of which wafer goes in which slot. I just laid them out in the order they were removed, much as I did with the pushrods when i replaced the headgaskets.
I used carb cleaner to get rid of the old lube and dirt. Once that was done and everything was back together I sprayed the assembly liberally with silicone lube and reassembled everything.
I have no idea what caused the retainer wafer to break but when I first removed the door handle in August and started poking around the missing part of it fell out of the door handle assembly.
thank you SO muchS.i have exact same issue on my 2001 D2 down to the broken retainer wafer. Except i don't have a fob or any other way of locking/unlocking or disengaging alarm. U may have just saved me a nervous breakdown.
A bit of a dredge of an old thread but on the same topic. I want to get a new key cut from code, and want to put new wafers in my Ignition and door locks. Does anyone know where to get the wafers from?
Maybe a locksmith could do it for $100-200 but that's half what I paid for the vehicle and I'm a tinkerer.
Great thread. For anyone suffering from the two-key syndrome, this is how you can solve that dilemma. It doesn't "really" matter which or how many wafers you put in there. If you take your tumbler apart you can reorient the wafers in a crude process of elimination until you get them arranged such that they are all flush when your ignition key is inserted. This will allow the cylinder to rotate in the sleeve and move the actuator, which is the important part. For someone to figure out that your particular door lock's only requirement is that a key simply slide into it (in the case of no wafers), would be a pretty remote occurrence. Even if you only get a single wafer in there, I would contend that NO ONE is going to randomly figure out your little secret. Or be able to do much about it. Breaking the window would be easier.
The only place I've seen them are this Polish site that gives one option for shipping to the USA... 999.00 ZT(over $250) https://b2b.expres.pl/en/zestawy-zap...000114971.html
Do we have any members in Poland (or Europe in general) that could help us out?
I was merely throwing this out there for a general PSA for anyone who might be struggling with the two key thing. May sure you take pictures when you do the ignition cylinder. That's a different animal altogether.
I have a box full of cylinders and wafers somewhere but I got tired of having a dozen different cylinders in various stages of dismantle and/or repair in my office, so I boxed everything up and stuffed it somewhere out in the garage a couple months ago. I soon as I can put my hands on that box I'd be happy to send you as many as you want. It may take me a few days however, the last 15 minutes turned up nothing.
08-06-2017 | 10:06 AM
