Door Lock Woes
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Pro Wrench
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From: Philly
Door Lock Woes
I ordered a (rear) drivers and (rear) passengers door lock actuators from RL Parts. I guess they are used mechanisms.
For anyone that has replaced one you know they are a PITA to work on.
I managed to fit the rear driver's door mechanism without too much effort (minus a few knuckle nicks and scraps) and it's doing the same thing as before. It will not lock or unlock with the key remote or button on the dash. Neither the passenger rear or driver rear door unlocks or locks with a press of button. There's no response.
Thinking it was a faulty mechanism, I plugged in the other one RL parts shipped and same thing, I can feel the both mechanisms click when I press unlock button, but there is no mechanical action.
What am I missing here?
Are both mechanisms faulty?
Side Note: the other day, out of the blue, the drivers rear door magically unlocked. But it only happened once.
For anyone that has replaced one you know they are a PITA to work on.
I managed to fit the rear driver's door mechanism without too much effort (minus a few knuckle nicks and scraps) and it's doing the same thing as before. It will not lock or unlock with the key remote or button on the dash. Neither the passenger rear or driver rear door unlocks or locks with a press of button. There's no response.
Thinking it was a faulty mechanism, I plugged in the other one RL parts shipped and same thing, I can feel the both mechanisms click when I press unlock button, but there is no mechanical action.
What am I missing here?
Are both mechanisms faulty?
Side Note: the other day, out of the blue, the drivers rear door magically unlocked. But it only happened once.
Last edited by coors; Jan 4, 2015 at 01:24 PM.
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Pro Wrench
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From: Philly
What's all this Superlock garbage I'm reading about? Could my rear doors be Superlocked?
I can manually lock and unlock them by pulling the handle to open the door and pressing the lock tab down to lock the door. This actin would lead me to believe Superlock is not active. Right?
I can manually lock and unlock them by pulling the handle to open the door and pressing the lock tab down to lock the door. This actin would lead me to believe Superlock is not active. Right?
Mudding
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 195
Likes: 7
I don't know if there's a better way to test it, but this should apply to most connections....
You'll need a voltmeter and some basic understanding of how to use it (so it's in the correct mode) Or a 12v test light probe (simple is better sometimes)
All you're looking for here is to see if there is current getting to the part in question.
Most circuits will have two (or more) wires. One of these is the hot lead. Most of the time one is the ground. Rarely (let's say there's only one wire) the vehicles metal structure will serve as the ground.
Put the hot lead on the voltmeter or one side of the test light..... to the feed (hot lead) wire of the circuit in question
Put the common/ground lead or the other side of the test light....to the ground wire or something metal on the vehicle.
You might need a 2nd person now. Have them them operate the door locks (or whatever you're testing). If the light turns on or you get a response on the voltmeter, you have power to the circuit. If you don't get anything, make sure you're hooked up correctly and try it a few times.
All the wiring schematics should be in the Rave manual.
If you can get a basic idea on how to use a voltmeter/test light you'll further ahead than many DIY mechanics. This is just a basic test to see if you're getting power or not. Sometimes you need to get into how many volts or amps, but worry about how to do all that when you need to. Don't over complicate things.
You'll need a voltmeter and some basic understanding of how to use it (so it's in the correct mode) Or a 12v test light probe (simple is better sometimes)
All you're looking for here is to see if there is current getting to the part in question.
Most circuits will have two (or more) wires. One of these is the hot lead. Most of the time one is the ground. Rarely (let's say there's only one wire) the vehicles metal structure will serve as the ground.
Put the hot lead on the voltmeter or one side of the test light..... to the feed (hot lead) wire of the circuit in question
Put the common/ground lead or the other side of the test light....to the ground wire or something metal on the vehicle.
You might need a 2nd person now. Have them them operate the door locks (or whatever you're testing). If the light turns on or you get a response on the voltmeter, you have power to the circuit. If you don't get anything, make sure you're hooked up correctly and try it a few times.
All the wiring schematics should be in the Rave manual.
If you can get a basic idea on how to use a voltmeter/test light you'll further ahead than many DIY mechanics. This is just a basic test to see if you're getting power or not. Sometimes you need to get into how many volts or amps, but worry about how to do all that when you need to. Don't over complicate things.
Thread Starter
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Pro Wrench
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 44
From: Philly
I don't know if there's a better way to test it, but this should apply to most connections....
You'll need a voltmeter and some basic understanding of how to use it (so it's in the correct mode) Or a 12v test light probe (simple is better sometimes)
All you're looking for here is to see if there is current getting to the part in question.
Most circuits will have two (or more) wires. One of these is the hot lead. Most of the time one is the ground. Rarely (let's say there's only one wire) the vehicles metal structure will serve as the ground.
Put the hot lead on the voltmeter or one side of the test light..... to the feed (hot lead) wire of the circuit in question
Put the common/ground lead or the other side of the test light....to the ground wire or something metal on the vehicle.
You might need a 2nd person now. Have them them operate the door locks (or whatever you're testing). If the light turns on or you get a response on the voltmeter, you have power to the circuit. If you don't get anything, make sure you're hooked up correctly and try it a few times.
All the wiring schematics should be in the Rave manual.
If you can get a basic idea on how to use a voltmeter/test light you'll further ahead than many DIY mechanics. This is just a basic test to see if you're getting power or not. Sometimes you need to get into how many volts or amps, but worry about how to do all that when you need to. Don't over complicate things.
You'll need a voltmeter and some basic understanding of how to use it (so it's in the correct mode) Or a 12v test light probe (simple is better sometimes)
All you're looking for here is to see if there is current getting to the part in question.
Most circuits will have two (or more) wires. One of these is the hot lead. Most of the time one is the ground. Rarely (let's say there's only one wire) the vehicles metal structure will serve as the ground.
Put the hot lead on the voltmeter or one side of the test light..... to the feed (hot lead) wire of the circuit in question
Put the common/ground lead or the other side of the test light....to the ground wire or something metal on the vehicle.
You might need a 2nd person now. Have them them operate the door locks (or whatever you're testing). If the light turns on or you get a response on the voltmeter, you have power to the circuit. If you don't get anything, make sure you're hooked up correctly and try it a few times.
All the wiring schematics should be in the Rave manual.
If you can get a basic idea on how to use a voltmeter/test light you'll further ahead than many DIY mechanics. This is just a basic test to see if you're getting power or not. Sometimes you need to get into how many volts or amps, but worry about how to do all that when you need to. Don't over complicate things.
Thank you for the thorough explanation. I'm fairly handy w/ a multi-meter, I taught a HVAC/Electrical/Motors & Control theory course at a local trade school. I was hoping for someone that has tread the waters before me to jump-in and lend their experience; I guess I'm a pioneer. I'll post my findings to the community once I find time to work on the old girl again.
Off to track down the electrical gremlin...
Thread Starter
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Pro Wrench
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Philly
Correct.
Doors that respond to the "lock & unlock" button/s on remote & dash:
Front - Driver & Passenger
Rear - Barn Door
Doors that DO NOT respond to the "lock and unlock" button/s on remote & dash:
Rear - Driver & Passenger
Doors that respond to the "lock & unlock" button/s on remote & dash:
Front - Driver & Passenger
Rear - Barn Door
Doors that DO NOT respond to the "lock and unlock" button/s on remote & dash:
Rear - Driver & Passenger
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 245
Likes: 16
From: Denver, CO
You'll know if they're "super locked" because even the interior door handle won't unlock it.
Getting those buggers out of the door is a finicky chore. But if you loosen the torx window frame bolts on the front of the door and remove the torx window frame bolts on the rear/bottom of the door, you can sneak the old mechanism out without removing the window frame. Just pay close attention to the angle that you manage to get it out. Then do your best to shoe-horn it in using exactly the reverse, then you won't have to completely remove the window.
Good luck. We're all counting on you.
Getting those buggers out of the door is a finicky chore. But if you loosen the torx window frame bolts on the front of the door and remove the torx window frame bolts on the rear/bottom of the door, you can sneak the old mechanism out without removing the window frame. Just pay close attention to the angle that you manage to get it out. Then do your best to shoe-horn it in using exactly the reverse, then you won't have to completely remove the window.
Good luck. We're all counting on you.
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