OK, so as I’m still sorting out my cooling issue, another thing has come up: when I start the car the suspension won’t come up, as in the compressor doesn’t even come on.

I know the compressor is just fine and there is a leak in one of the valves or lines or something, because when it gets cold outside (Kalifornistan car) it dumps.

Either way, after reading the entire SLS section of the Rave again, I know the components and all that, but I’m thinking it thinks the doors aren’t closed and I was wondering where that switch is? I’m thinking this because the compressor isn’t coming on and it’s behaving like a door is open (the health and safety feature) as I’m not getting any errors, and I get the 3 confirmation beeps when I try to put it in off road mode.

Along those lines I’ve yet to order a new Nanocom to program a new key and I’m trying to remember how the central locks work. If I turn 45 degrees either way it locks and unlocks all the doors but the drivers door. In order to get the driver’s door, I have to go full 90 to lock or unlock, just that door. I thought that was doing the “super lock” or whatever and I’m scared about that as I know the problems it causes. Also, the horn now honks once when I lock the doors.

And that ties into the first question; I thought that might be a confirmation that one of the doors isn’t closed? Or is it doing the lock confirmation? It didn’t do the honk when I first picked it up a month ago, so that is what is making me thing a door switch is wonky.

Any ideas?

 

My SLS would never operate without the truck having driven for a few feet. But if your alarm is honking when you lock the truck, then you do have a switch that's not registering as closed. Could be the bonnet if you rule out the doors.

 

Boom, this is what I was looking for and suspected it to be the case.

I know where the hood one is, but where are the door ones? Are they internal to the door and activated as part of the door check strap? That’s really my question.

I also did some mild research regarding the superlocking, and think I’m safe. I think the PO mentioned the driver’s door lock actuator was swapped out, so that might explain the having to turn it to 90, but am not sure. The last 2 Discos had perfectly functioning key fobs, so I don’t know that I’ve ever actually used a key. So this is yet another fun exercise in learning how the Disco works.

If you can’t tell, I’m over being pissed at it, and am now back to having fun doing all the research like I did before. I was just pissed for a bit as I was under some pressure to get it to a good working state by the boss as her L320 has been misbehaving and parts are delayed a good while…

 

Pretty sure they're internal to the lock actuators.

 

Yep, you are correct based on what I’ve read in the Rave.

 

I got it! I’m an idiot and didn’t see the hood switch was displaced from me probably being a bit grumpy and closing the hood a bit too aggressively out of frustration on the cooling system issues. Adjusted that and checked all the doors and the compressor came on immediately.

It was good to do a refresher on the air system as a whole, so no harm no foul.

Now just to figure out the damn cooling system sorted out so I can drive the thing.