Yep, as long as you don't drink it or get it in an open cut, mucous membrane, or eye contact. As far as the vehicle, it makes the "rubber' parts it contacts swell ever so slightly, which reduces the leak for a period of time. Individual results may vary, and any positive results will eventually need repair, but perhaps that will be when weather is nicer and this gauge is on full. These type of products have been around for a long time, they do work some, they don't work forever. It buys you time.

If SWMBO can't stand one drop on the garage floor, big problems...

 

I've heard via this forum (including one of the moderators), that the basic oil leak stop is good stuff for the motor, or the transfer case, but that the other products from USA Sealants are not quite as effective for Land Rovers.

For my particular situation, trying a $23 bottle of oil leak stop in my 138K engine rather than spending $1600 to get the leaks fixed, was worth a shot, and so far has paid off. YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY.

drowssap is EXACTLY RIGHT in his statement --> "that one bottle does not stop everything"

 

^^^exactly...

 

Well Im debating using this stuff too....Head gaskets seeping,oil leaks all over and now starting to drip antifreeze....97k miles...oh and the tick....So save money up and try the oil stop leak and also the coolent stop leak? or spend the time and money have the head gaskets done...and start opening up the can of worms?....

And she runs fine all temps and readings are good installed a ultra gauge...the oil leaks and tick have been around for almost 3yrs and 20k miles...so what to do....the magic question..

 

it may just be me but i had good luck with the rear main sealer, but only time will tell.
That being said I had a small rear main seal leak in my wifes RRC, not a quart a day leak that some people think should be fixable with a bottle.

 

Don't use the Head Gasket sealer (that's what I hear)....DII cooling systems are too sensitive, and don't seem to handle coolant additives very well. If you haven't had the HG done, it's probably time. Save up and get an overhaul if you're planning on keeping it. I tried using some AC Delco coolant seal tabs (recommended by GM for their notoriously 'porous' aluminum Cadillac engines that also use Dexcool). It worked for a time, but ended with losing a thermostat shortly after that. New thermostat, green coolant, and everything is peachy.


For me, the WS is a 'Band-Aid' while I save up for a replacement/overhaul/LR3

 

ylodiscoII,I one the band aid thing till I figure out the route I want to go..New motor or do a rebuild?

 

So, looks like it has been a while since you have put this stuff in. Is the leak still cured for now? I know this was a short term thing, just wondered if it has held up.

 

Fix the car, don't patch it.

The front seal isn't that bad of a job. The leaks oil you see underneath and at the bellhousing are probably leaking down from the VCs and being blown by from the front cover leak.

tightening the valve covers is not a fix. re-checking their torque periodically is another thing... The spec is only about 6-7 ft/lbs. If tightening by hand you have probably over-tightened and distorted them ,possibly causing further leakage.

 

I have resealed the valve covers, oil pan, and front cover. Replaced the timing chain. I have a rear main seaping, not leaking real badly. Just an annoying few drips on the garage floor over a weekend, figured this stuff might help.