Drivers Lock Falls... Weak Spring?
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Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Gramercy, La
Drivers Lock Falls... Weak Spring?
So my discovery has been having this problem with the Drivers door lock basicly being about 1mm too low and not allowing you to open the door. What is it that makes the lock move fully up or fully down and how can I fix this?
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,227
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From: La Jolla, California
sounds like you have a broken spring in the latching mechanism. There was a write up in the past couple months on the issue. I had that problem on my 1999 DI on the driver's Quick and simple transaction. Fairly easy fix and what a difference once it fixed! Let me know if you can't find the thread. I couldn't get the thread to copy so I copied my post. Hope it helps. Phil
1999 DI
2001 DII
Repair on my 1999 DI drivers door and rear left-side door by replacing the door **** springs within the door latches.
I ordered some replacement springs form Phillipstuart33 on ebay, took about a week to get the spings from the UK to San Diego. I got 5 new springs, one for each door and one for the rear cargo door. The two left side door latch springs are unique, the right side and the cargo doors are the same. The two rear doors have two small springs in them, the front doors have one small spring. One of the two on the rear seat door latch and the one in the front latch control the "snap" of the door ****, your door **** should make a distinct snap up or snap down. If the spring breaks, the door **** will go down enough to lock but will not stay up enough to allow the door latch to open the door. you can test the spring function by manually pushing the door know down or pulling it up. My front door would not open from the outside without turning the key and puling on the exterior door handle at the same time. On the interior, I would have to pull the door **** up and them pull on the door handle. On the rear, on the first opening after using the remote, the door would not open without pulling up on the door **** and then pulling on the door handle.
After replacing the springs, $5 each vs. $180 each for new latches, the door locks work like clockwork!
The rear latch was much easier to remove and replace than the front. Use the RAVE as a guide. You will also want to invest in a door panel removal tool, about $8 at your local auto parts store. You will also need a small mirror and a bright flashlight or other light source. I recommend that you print out and keep handy the image of the latch and the various rods that connect the latch, and interior and exterior handles.
The front door latch is a bit more of a chore. After removing the door panel, you need to remove the lock actuator, 4 bolts, be careful there is a metal plate on the back of the top two bolts that will fall off. Again, refer to the RAVE for instuctions. In short, you will need to raise the window frame up about 12 inches to get the latch out. You will need to remove the two bolts on the inside of the door at the bottom of each leg of the window frame. Then remove the two torx bolts, one on the latch end of the door and one on the front inside jam. the one on the front is tight, I used a torx screwdriver bit and turned it with a small open ended wrench. there was not enough room to use a ratchet or a handle. You will also need to pull of the interior outside mirror cover and unplug the electrical connection on for the mirror. Be careful as you disconnect the various connecting rods on the latch, it is easy to forget how they all go back together, again the RAVE has a diagram that is very helpful. R and R the spring, put the latch back in, connect it up and away you go. The local independent wanted $800, labor and two new latches, I did it in about 3 1/2 hours (including about an hour trying to find a rod clip that fell and disappeared in a gap between the door skin and the framework of the door; mirrors, magnets, picks and still no clip.....), and $10 in parts. It is easier than it appears. What a relief to have the doors fixed. By the way, the door latch had a GM stamp on it. I wonder if it was used on any US model of vehicle. I am sure that the replacement latch and/or spring would be much less that the dealer supplied part or the spring from Phillipstuart33.
1999 DI
2001 DII
Repair on my 1999 DI drivers door and rear left-side door by replacing the door **** springs within the door latches.
I ordered some replacement springs form Phillipstuart33 on ebay, took about a week to get the spings from the UK to San Diego. I got 5 new springs, one for each door and one for the rear cargo door. The two left side door latch springs are unique, the right side and the cargo doors are the same. The two rear doors have two small springs in them, the front doors have one small spring. One of the two on the rear seat door latch and the one in the front latch control the "snap" of the door ****, your door **** should make a distinct snap up or snap down. If the spring breaks, the door **** will go down enough to lock but will not stay up enough to allow the door latch to open the door. you can test the spring function by manually pushing the door know down or pulling it up. My front door would not open from the outside without turning the key and puling on the exterior door handle at the same time. On the interior, I would have to pull the door **** up and them pull on the door handle. On the rear, on the first opening after using the remote, the door would not open without pulling up on the door **** and then pulling on the door handle.
After replacing the springs, $5 each vs. $180 each for new latches, the door locks work like clockwork!
The rear latch was much easier to remove and replace than the front. Use the RAVE as a guide. You will also want to invest in a door panel removal tool, about $8 at your local auto parts store. You will also need a small mirror and a bright flashlight or other light source. I recommend that you print out and keep handy the image of the latch and the various rods that connect the latch, and interior and exterior handles.
The front door latch is a bit more of a chore. After removing the door panel, you need to remove the lock actuator, 4 bolts, be careful there is a metal plate on the back of the top two bolts that will fall off. Again, refer to the RAVE for instuctions. In short, you will need to raise the window frame up about 12 inches to get the latch out. You will need to remove the two bolts on the inside of the door at the bottom of each leg of the window frame. Then remove the two torx bolts, one on the latch end of the door and one on the front inside jam. the one on the front is tight, I used a torx screwdriver bit and turned it with a small open ended wrench. there was not enough room to use a ratchet or a handle. You will also need to pull of the interior outside mirror cover and unplug the electrical connection on for the mirror. Be careful as you disconnect the various connecting rods on the latch, it is easy to forget how they all go back together, again the RAVE has a diagram that is very helpful. R and R the spring, put the latch back in, connect it up and away you go. The local independent wanted $800, labor and two new latches, I did it in about 3 1/2 hours (including about an hour trying to find a rod clip that fell and disappeared in a gap between the door skin and the framework of the door; mirrors, magnets, picks and still no clip.....), and $10 in parts. It is easier than it appears. What a relief to have the doors fixed. By the way, the door latch had a GM stamp on it. I wonder if it was used on any US model of vehicle. I am sure that the replacement latch and/or spring would be much less that the dealer supplied part or the spring from Phillipstuart33.
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