<s>One last stupid question before I dig in tomorrow: it says "remove 4 torx bolts *and a nut*" but the drawings don't make clear where there's a nut; is it backing up the bolt on the right-rear mounting point, which appears to be the only one that doesn't go through something blind?

Well, ok: two: where does one get "new roll pins and retainers"? I assume I might reuse the pins, but clearly those snap-ring retainers are gonna die when I drift out the pivot pin; is that a hardware-store item?</s>

Disregard: the nut is on the left-rear bolt, and Paul included new pins and retainers. Well, a couple, at least. :-)

 

The actual removal of this motor, the one on the left forward side of the seat, is a bit of a PITA.

The rear pin you can pry loose from the hole, towards the center of the seat; it's only splined about 3/16" from the flat head, biting into the plastic yoke.

The forward pin is rolled steel, though, and you're going to need a real honest-to-Ghod drift to knock it out. A short one, and a fairly dense, narrow headed hammer; the seat's not all that wide underneath, and the master multiplug is mounted right in your way.

Before you start trying to knock the forward pin out, put the replacement in your freezer. Chilling it will make it a teeny bit smaller, which will make it noticeably easier to reinstall.

Whether heating the metal casting of the new motor actually helps is unclear, but I did it anyway.

More to follow.

 

Aaaaand, we're done. Took me 3.5 hours; it would probably take you 1.75 to 2. :-)

Getting the rear clevis pin in was a snap; getting the front one in was not nearly as easy, but it was also not nearly as hard as getting the old one out. Tip: use a socket as a sleeve to keep the drift on the new pin while you're putting it in. Not losing *any* of your impulse from the hammer is critical to getting it in at all; any slipping or sliding will kill you.

Also, standard size drifts are too long to let your hammer get enough travel, in a couple spots; perservere; you will eventually get it in.

Once you've reassembled the seat, position it on the bolt holes, plug in all 3 (or 4) plugs, turn the truck back on, and make sure all your motors move before you bolt it down, cause bolting it down is as much of a pain as taking it out.

After you connect it up, test it, and bolt it in, make one final test run of every motor through full travel in both directions before you put the trim panels back on, and make sure you're not dragging any unprotected cables. One bundle in the front will drag across the stereo amp, but it's wrapped to protect it, and there's a vinyl wrap with velcro that should have come off the 2 main multiplugs when you took the seat out, don't forget to put that back on before your final test.

Skipping way back to the beginning: you'll need an E-14 "external Torx" socket, as lipadj notes, to pull the bolts; 3 of them are self-starter machine bolts that appear to be 5/16-18, or whatever the metric equivalent is (IE: do *not* just go out and buy that size bolt and blame me when it strips your holes); they're fine thread bolts, and will take forever to pull, especially since they were probably coated with Loctite when installed. These three will take a 6" extension on your ratchet, and you'll want a fine pitch ratchet wrench, if you don't already have one; the right rear in particular hasn't got a lot of swing room for the wrench handle.

The left rear is a *standard* fine thread bolt, with a 17mm nut and 1" washer accessible from underneath the truck -- as with pulling the seat itself, this is a 2-person job; you have to be in the back seat to work the top bolt head, and in the front door well to reach the nut underneath. For this you'll need the 17mm on a 6" extension underneath, and the E-14 with no extension up top.