Hi, This place is in the UK, but it will show you whats around for purchase, they do ship world wide, but I would "assume" you guys can get them a LOT cheaper over there.

I like the look of the heavy duty ones as they have more bearing contact area..

http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Propshafts.html

 

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...&VehCode=N

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

http://roverconnection.com/

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/sea...;Issubmit=True

 

THANKS. I didn't check NAPA. I'll swing by there today. The roversnorth one didnt seem to have fittings.

BTW, do I have to do anything else besides replace the u joints? I saw that there is a donut repair kit and some other stuff. Is that just needed if they are samaged or are there additional components that wear?

Thanks again!

 

Do you mean the flex coupler on the rear driveshaft?

 

The $250 I paid was parts and labor for the rebuild. It ran me $18 (literally) to install the driveshaft back on the truck (I was about to get on the highway and didn't want to be dirty...yuk!).

Just FYI so folks have an idea what to pay...

 

Make sure when you have the u-joints replaced that you also replace the centering ball kit or you will have another failure real quickly.

 

I cant find that "ball kit" anywhere over here, you have a part number Mike ?

 

Ditto....jkid postd a pic of it under the similar thread. Seems like a minor piece but I didnt find it by searching Roversnorth and some other sites.

Also, sorry to be redundant but what is the deal with "balancing" the driveshaft? Doesnt sound like a home garage type deal.

 

I dont know how to do it, but from what I have read as long as the grease nipples are on opposite sides of the prop shaft you should be good. But since the DII front prop shaft has 3 u-joints I do not know how you would do this.

 

Hey U.P.,

The "ball kit" part # is either

Neapco 7-0081NG

or

Precision 617

Either brand works. The part has to be "pressed" in. You can use a hammer and similar sized socket to bang it in, but a press is preferred. The tricky part is removing the old one. Ideally you need a slide hammer to tug it out.

Note: the Neapco U-Joint is nice (part # 1-0005), it has the grease zerk nipple in the end cap, making for easy greasing.