Hello! I´m new here and this is my first post.
I´m giving a 2001 Disco 2 v8 a second life, long story short is: an uncle had it since new, he used it for a lot of years going camping and hunting, but some years ago it started to show some problems. He stopped using it, and after some years he told me that if I wanted to fix it, he would give it to me as a gift. I obviously accepted, and here I am trying to get some more miles out of it and get to some more adventures with it.

I´ve made already some maintenance and fixes to it, but there´s this sound that comes out of the transfer case or transmission, sometimes harder and sometimes lower, that I have not been able to stop. The clunking sound happens when, in operating temperature (normally doesn´t sound at all when the vehicle is cold), I shift from neutral to Drive or to reverse, accompanied with a small transmission kick. Also, when going higher than 20 mph, when I lift my foot from the throttle pedal, or when I step on it again, it also makes a clunking sound with a small kick. (If I release my foot really slow, it doesn´t kick or make any noise, but I must be very gentle every time).

After those symptoms, I inspected front and rear drive shafts, and as I have read is very common on these Discos, the front propshaft´s u joints were completely destroyed. I also inspected transmission fluid, and It was black. I installed a new propshaft and changed atf fluid, drove for about 30 minutes after that service, and it worked really smooth and great, the clunking sound and kicks stopped for that drive. The next day, the same exact sound started again. So then I inspected front and rear diff fluids, rear was ok, but the front looked like chocolate, it seems like it kept running with water for some long time, as it was reeeally looking like chocolate and with a very little amount of fluid.

For now, I just quick cleaned the front differential, the chocolate-like fluid came with some metal chunks with it, but I just changed the fluid and stored the Disco. I´m concerned about having to change differential and potentially more parts, that´s why I stopped moving it for now. Other than that, the transmission works great, it makes the normal shifts really smooth, rear drivetrain doesn´t seem to have any problem and engine works fine too.

I would like to know some recommendations for this issue: Is it normal and should be fine driving this way for some time? or should I be not moving it at all until I change the differential? should I keep looking for other potentially damaged parts?

Regards

 

Welcome.
Check the transmission fluid level first. Is is a stupid complex way but the geniuses at LandRover saved $1 deleting the level stick.
The differentials may develop 'play' from wear of spacer washers contributing to the 'clunck'. Can be checked by twisting by hand the driveshafts in neutral.

 

Thanks!
The transmission fluid is in good level and relatively fresh.
And yes, there is some play on the front driveshaft, I can twist it a bit without the wheels moving.

 

Check the transfer case fluid, you might want to think about replacing it with 140 weight fluid thicker fluid will help cushion the gear backlash

 

It seems to me a full list of service should be performed again.

Transmission: Did you do a full drain by dropping the pan and do a new filter? If not, that should be done. My understanding is the transmissions are pretty stout, and often times a really good service resolves a bunch of stuff.

Front drive shaft: Did you get a new or rebuilt one with greasable U joints? That too is critical.

Diffs: If you got metal bits, in your last fluid change, one or both may be ready to go bye bye. I’d do another fluid change and if metal bits again, I think pulling the 3rd member is the next step to inspect.

T case: Another fluid change or change for the first time can’t hurt anything.

Rear drive shaft: Check the guibo (flex disc) for cracks and all that. Replace of course if needed.

That’s just the clunk. On other fronts that are invariably going to come up, do you have an external temp gauge? If not, I wouldn’t drive it again until you get an Ultragauge or the like in there to get a baseline. I’d be relatively positive you will be due for a cooling system refresh (radiator, fan clutch, lower temp thermostat if not in line, and a water pump wouldn’t be a bad idea- and assuming you need to get Dexcool out and swap for Prestone 50/50).

You get that stuff sorted out and the D2 is hard to kill. You’ll have a myriad of other stuff as well, but that’s fix as you go and you have this forum and google to guide you in other other stuff. Download a copy of the Rave and you’ll be pretty set. They can be frustrating, but are worth the effort if you have the patience and take the time to get them correct.