Dry Ice Blasting vs Glass Blasting
get yourself a decent weighted hammer with a pointed end on it and go around the frame striking the metal. if some light surface rust comes off...that is to be expected. if the sound is more of a deadened
thud vs a metal ping (ie: solid metal) that'll tell you the rust has permeated thru the frame (that's bad). obviously if the hammer makes a hole...run away.
the rear quarter portion of the frames are notorious for rusting badly in salty environments. inspect that area well. also around the 2 catalytic converters.
make sure the metal holding the outriggers to the frame are not rusted thru as well.
thud vs a metal ping (ie: solid metal) that'll tell you the rust has permeated thru the frame (that's bad). obviously if the hammer makes a hole...run away.
the rear quarter portion of the frames are notorious for rusting badly in salty environments. inspect that area well. also around the 2 catalytic converters.
make sure the metal holding the outriggers to the frame are not rusted thru as well.
Last edited by mackendw; Apr 3, 2026 at 08:17 AM.
the positive thing about your frame is it has not been covered with any sort of material that baddies use to mask problems. (ie: rubberized undercoating, etc.). you can see the level of rust directly.
I went over my frame from front to back with a angle grinder with a cup wheel to bring the metal back to good shape, then applied a rust converter to it to neutralize any surface rust that had formed.
then applied a good chassis paint.
I went over my frame from front to back with a angle grinder with a cup wheel to bring the metal back to good shape, then applied a rust converter to it to neutralize any surface rust that had formed.
then applied a good chassis paint.
If you want show quality, dry ice is the way.
If you want to preserve and protect, a good hi-pressure wash, apply a rust converter and then something to protect it. I like fluid film or wool wax. Doing my son's 93 bronco with fluid film this weekend.
I use a lot of glass on smaller projects that are stainless steel and make big noises, but I can't imagine trying to blast under a car with them. Not saying it can't be done with the right set up, but I can't fathom the set-up in a DIY situation.
If you want to preserve and protect, a good hi-pressure wash, apply a rust converter and then something to protect it. I like fluid film or wool wax. Doing my son's 93 bronco with fluid film this weekend.
I use a lot of glass on smaller projects that are stainless steel and make big noises, but I can't imagine trying to blast under a car with them. Not saying it can't be done with the right set up, but I can't fathom the set-up in a DIY situation.
you are referring to the drop arms being rusty/crusty? if you give them a light brushing with a wire wheel and use corroseal or something similar...this will turn all the rust to a black color and neutralize it. then cover seal it
with a product that will prevent oxygen from repeating this in the future.
with a product that will prevent oxygen from repeating this in the future.
Dry ice blasting isn’t any good for significant rust -- light surface rust, yes, but more than that, no. Try something else / a different media. Dry ice blasting is better at cleaning. (I’ve done it to multiple cars of mine...)
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