vacuum lines run from the brake cancelation switch, on the brake pedal to the cruise control pump at the driver front in a hole next to the power steering reservoir. The other line goes to the engine. Cut the lines that are cracked so they fit the vacuum line T. If no T, then by one. its a three way vacuum line T. now if that doesn't work then you have to diagnose it.

 

their is a empty hole were the p/s and intake box is. is their supost to be somthing their?

 

There should be a small line running to the fuel pressure regulator on the drivers side rear of the fuel rail. There should be a line front the passenger valve cover to the intake, along with a line from the drivers valve cover to the throttle body. The cruise vaccum line should go from the diaphragm on the throttle to a t fitting that goes to the firewall and the other under the jack location. This should not be connected to the engine vacuum anywhere. The cruise has a separate vacuum pump uncer the jack, and the one that goes through the firewall will go to your brake light switch. I can't tell you where the small hard lines go because I have AEL and odds are you don't

 

Thank for the info, ill go check in a bit. what is AEL is that differnt emissions type that people talk about and if it is how do u know u have it?

 

P1191.DOWNSTREAM HEATER--HARDWARE DRIVER O/C ( BOTH HEATERS ) this I believe pertains to the O2 sensors

It very unlikely that you have AEL....advanced evaporative loss......it was installed starting in late '97 , check atlanticbritish.com for a pic of the decal if you DID have it.

the purge valve is located ( connected to ) a black rectangular box just behind the battery,
it also has a vacumm line going from it to the intake manifold......your fuel tank vents into the box ("canister") and at a certain time......like when you accellerate a little hard...the ecu sens a signal to the purge valve to open and the engine vaccumm sucks out the evaporated fumes .

 

So how is everything after replacing your alternator? Both codes could be caused by a low voltage situation.

PS, the little 194 lights in your headlights are "city" lights. you aren't allowed to run full headlights in towns in Europe, so the dim headlamps are for driving in town. Kinda like parking lights, only they are in your headlamp. My neighbor tells me I need a new alternator about every month. Tried to explain it to him, but he forgets.

 

dont get me started on the alt. ill be putting the 4th one in and the 3rd battery when i get home.none have put out more than 12.30 volts and they are killing the batterys and to the city lights when are they on or do u have to switch they on. also the black box behind the battery has no wires but 1 big vac line and what looks like 2 others on top with nothing connected to them is this ok or not and what did you mean by if i DID have

 

I know the questions keep pileing up but has any one thought of putting a electric fan to replace the belt driven one? if so do you know what size, kind any info at all would be great

 

I think a flex-a-lite 210 dual fan will fill it out well.

City lights are when you turn the switch to the first position(parking lights)

The box behind the battery is your Evap canister. The place for the 2 lines has small lines running to the front lower portion if the intake on mine. Mine has AEL and I am pretty sure yours doesn't.

Sounds like you have a short somewhere. Do you have any draw on the battery with the truck turned off?

 

thanks for the info, and sorry if it seemed like i snaped before its because i did but not at u guys but at the disco. i mean i bought it to play and its like it dont want to. i knew that i would have to fix some things because i got it for 700 but come on waiting a week for a good alt to come in its been sitting in the drive for 3 snows now it realy touching a nerve. agin thank you