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  #11  
Old 10-20-2019, 09:56 PM
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Here’s progress on mine, again, I haven’t actually had time to fit it all in the truck to check for final fit net, but the battery support sits nice the plastic tray. The thing I’m most concerned about is the height, I think my math works out but I’ll be insulating the crap pout of the positive terminal and closing the hood real gently until I’m sure.




 
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  #12  
Old 10-20-2019, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by greisinb
Here’s progress on mine, again, I haven’t actually had time to fit it all in the truck to check for final fit net, but the battery support sits nice the plastic tray. The thing I’m most concerned about is the height, I think my math works out but I’ll be insulating the crap pout of the positive terminal and closing the hood real gently until I’m sure.




I want to see how yours and how you’re fitting Two in front..
 
  #13  
Old 10-21-2019, 04:43 AM
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Just did all this myself as well.
Just began engineering it from the fender well up after I got rid of the entire plastic battery/jack box entirely.

i used national Luna. Just bought the selenoid & monitor separately, terminal lugs, salvaged some 0 gage terminal wire.


 
  #14  
Old 10-21-2019, 04:48 AM
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No cutting of fender well.
my trunk load space was pretty valuable, so I wasn’t looking to run lines back and forth- the wire would have been a great expense unnecessarily.
Putting them side by side cured a lot of that. Plus, placing the selenoid close by relieved a lot of excess wire. I found ample space in the front corner & noticing pictures of others who’ve mounted there- I knew it could be done.

You’ll want to consider an external or auxiliary fuse panel. Blue Seas makes great waterproof panels in various sizes. Keep good labels, use good urethane coated stranded lines.
It took me a loooong time to slowly educate myself, lay out all the architecture to it at a pace where it wasn’t too costly & breaking the time to. Had a blast fabricating all it & well worth it.

 

Last edited by SundayFunday; 10-21-2019 at 12:44 PM.
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  #15  
Old 10-21-2019, 11:13 AM
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Nice - I thought the height of the battery was going to hit the hood so i opted out but I may just do it way. Like I said, Im not in a hurry so I gotta rethink the whole set up now...

EDIT - Do you have a photo of the bottom of the battery? Just curious how you made it flat - I have an idea in my head but I just want to see how your battery holder is set up.

This is the
VSR VSR
that I got - it's IP65 - not sure if i want to keep it under the hood...
I got a
FUSE BOX FUSE BOX
as well - If I decide to have it under the hood, I will probably get a better secured water proof one...
Also got the
multi switches and dual 12V charger multi switches and dual 12V charger
for the back...

Thanks for the clear answer - I dont want my trunk any heavier because I have an RTT more towards the back.
 

Last edited by GoRoll; 10-21-2019 at 11:28 AM.
  #16  
Old 10-21-2019, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by SundayFunday

What kind of battery size that fits? I will go this way when my starter battery is worn down.
 
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  #17  
Old 10-21-2019, 12:28 PM
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Since we are on this subject....

Can AGM > VSR > LITHIUM 100Ah be set up this way?

I'm wondering if anyone has done it and if its safe.

(Doing research now)
 
  #18  
Old 10-21-2019, 02:43 PM
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Since we are on this subject....

Can AGM > VSR > LITHIUM 100Ah be set up this way?

I'm wondering if anyone has done it and if its safe.
I don't know much about car sized Lithium batteries but do know about smaller ones. Can it be done? I would say that it depends if the battery has a Lithium Ion charge controller inside the battery (of if a charge controller can be fitted externally to the battery but inline after the VSR). Lithium Ion batteries are extremely finicky about how they are charged and if it's done wrong (or if the battery or charger is damaged) it goes south real bad real fast. A typical alternator type setup will destroy a lithium battery and probably torch your truck along the way. Honestly, given the complexity and cost of the setup it probably way easier to run several lead acids in parallel or keep some extra ones in the back and swap them out.
 
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  #19  
Old 10-21-2019, 04:00 PM
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Lithium batteries are going to replace lead acid batteries, but common lithium batteries like used in Tesla are not suitable for 12V systems and raise safety concerns (thermal runaway). For that application LFP ( lithium iron phosphate or LiFePO) batteries are used, which have several advantages: longer cycle life, constant discharge voltage, nominal 3.2 V output = four cells can be placed in series for a nominal voltage of 12.8 V, good safety characteristics, thermal and chemical stability. Disadvantage is higher price and lower specific energy compared to other lithium batteries, but it is still 2 to 3 times better compared to lead acid batteries. It means you can get the same capacity at about one third to one half weight/volume compared to lead acid batteries.

100Ah LFP battery capacity should fit into the dead room behind the vent next to the cubby.
 
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  #20  
Old 10-21-2019, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Discorama
What kind of battery size that fits? I will go this way when my starter battery is worn down.
I fabbed the tray to fit the batteries I had.
Tray is about 13” x 10” on bottom, with 2 folded side of aprox 2” & the two tabs on the back lean against wheel well.
 


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