EBC brakes- pads worn after only 10k miles?
#1
EBC brakes- pads worn after only 10k miles?
At 71k miles I ordered the full EBC brake package from Atlantic British- green stuff pads and slotted/ dimpled rotors for around $500. Now at 81k miles a mechanic is telling me the pads are worn and need replacing.
Granted the rears are probably no good since my hubs are leaking all over them, and may have worn prematurely, but really- only 10k on highly recommended kevlar pads? (also does anyone have a line on good used hubs- I'm being quoted $250 per hub for used ones.)
The previous mechanic that installed them was not LR trained, and I can say that I always questioned his install. The scraping noise one hears from the slots in slotted rotors never went away, as I understand it was supposed to after 500 miles or so of break-in. And the stopping power never seemed all that good.
Is it possible he hadn't adjusted the pads correctly, maybe setting them too close to the rotor, causing an exaggerated rubbing effect that led to the premature wear? Rotors seem good, with a small lip on the fronts and hardly a lip on the rears.
Granted the rears are probably no good since my hubs are leaking all over them, and may have worn prematurely, but really- only 10k on highly recommended kevlar pads? (also does anyone have a line on good used hubs- I'm being quoted $250 per hub for used ones.)
The previous mechanic that installed them was not LR trained, and I can say that I always questioned his install. The scraping noise one hears from the slots in slotted rotors never went away, as I understand it was supposed to after 500 miles or so of break-in. And the stopping power never seemed all that good.
Is it possible he hadn't adjusted the pads correctly, maybe setting them too close to the rotor, causing an exaggerated rubbing effect that led to the premature wear? Rotors seem good, with a small lip on the fronts and hardly a lip on the rears.
#2
At 71k miles I ordered the full EBC brake package from Atlantic British- green stuff pads and slotted/ dimpled rotors for around $500. Now at 81k miles a mechanic is telling me the pads are worn and need replacing.
Granted the rears are probably no good since my hubs are leaking all over them, and may have worn prematurely, but really- only 10k on highly recommended kevlar pads? (also does anyone have a line on good used hubs- I'm being quoted $250 per hub for used ones.)
The previous mechanic that installed them was not LR trained, and I can say that I always questioned his install. The scraping noise one hears from the slots in slotted rotors never went away, as I understand it was supposed to after 500 miles or so of break-in. And the stopping power never seemed all that good.
Is it possible he hadn't adjusted the pads correctly, maybe setting them too close to the rotor, causing an exaggerated rubbing effect that led to the premature wear? Rotors seem good, with a small lip on the fronts and hardly a lip on the rears.
Granted the rears are probably no good since my hubs are leaking all over them, and may have worn prematurely, but really- only 10k on highly recommended kevlar pads? (also does anyone have a line on good used hubs- I'm being quoted $250 per hub for used ones.)
The previous mechanic that installed them was not LR trained, and I can say that I always questioned his install. The scraping noise one hears from the slots in slotted rotors never went away, as I understand it was supposed to after 500 miles or so of break-in. And the stopping power never seemed all that good.
Is it possible he hadn't adjusted the pads correctly, maybe setting them too close to the rotor, causing an exaggerated rubbing effect that led to the premature wear? Rotors seem good, with a small lip on the fronts and hardly a lip on the rears.
#3
Thanks for the references for hubs.
I called Will and he will ship to Los Angeles both rears for $220. However I had put a message out to the guys at lrland.com in Sun Valley (Los Angeles area) and they came up with both shipped at $120.
However no warranty, and Will gives a generous 1 yr. warranty- something enticing considering the who knows what mileage/ time to fail a used hub might face.
I too worry about the front calipers. I just found out there's uneven wear up there too- 20% pad remaining on the left and 30% on right side.
So if no adjustments are possible, is everyone thinking bad calipers? Could there be blocked brake lines, a bad ABS unit, or anything else? I dont have the 3 amigos problem, or have ever thrown any brake related codes
I called Will and he will ship to Los Angeles both rears for $220. However I had put a message out to the guys at lrland.com in Sun Valley (Los Angeles area) and they came up with both shipped at $120.
However no warranty, and Will gives a generous 1 yr. warranty- something enticing considering the who knows what mileage/ time to fail a used hub might face.
I too worry about the front calipers. I just found out there's uneven wear up there too- 20% pad remaining on the left and 30% on right side.
So if no adjustments are possible, is everyone thinking bad calipers? Could there be blocked brake lines, a bad ABS unit, or anything else? I dont have the 3 amigos problem, or have ever thrown any brake related codes
#4
I was going to use drilled and slotted rotors on my wifes Volvo, but after talking to a friend who also runs weekend SCCA race cars he told me not to because the holes in the rotors will eat the brake pads for lunch, dinner and bedtime snack.
He said they are great for track days because you need to change your brake pads after a race anyway and all the drilled and slotted rotors do it dissipate heat quicker than vented rotors.
That is not needed for everyday driving.
So here is my recommendation to you...dump the drilled rotors and use whatever brake pad you want.
If you want to stay with the drilled rotors then buy the $20 brake pads from AutoZone and plan on replacing them once a month.
EDIT:all oil soaked brake pads means is that brake pad soaked in oil will not stop as well as a dry brake pad.
It will NOT cause them to wear quicker.
He said they are great for track days because you need to change your brake pads after a race anyway and all the drilled and slotted rotors do it dissipate heat quicker than vented rotors.
That is not needed for everyday driving.
So here is my recommendation to you...dump the drilled rotors and use whatever brake pad you want.
If you want to stay with the drilled rotors then buy the $20 brake pads from AutoZone and plan on replacing them once a month.
EDIT:all oil soaked brake pads means is that brake pad soaked in oil will not stop as well as a dry brake pad.
It will NOT cause them to wear quicker.
#5
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