I have a problem that has been narrowed down to the ECU, I now have a used one from the same yr (2002) and I have an 2002 SD Discovery 2. Can I swap the ECU with out having to reprogram? I have gone into the RAVE manual, but it is not very clear on this.

AND if I do need to reprogram... what should I pay to the 'stealership' for this service?

Thanks for the help.
Cheers!

 

There is a thread called, "desperate for help"
He had the same thing happen. From what the guys over there said, it needs to be synched to another module. I've never replaced one on a Rover, but I'm sure someone can help you.

 

Dusty1 has a good grasp of that issue... I think it has to be synced but he will know (and know how to do it).

 

Clint, just curious as to why and how you determined the ECU was bad?
As to your question, your best bet is to use a used ECU and BCU from the same donor vehicle then there will be no need to find a shop to spend the big bucks at.

 

I'm curious, too. After all of the stuff I've put my rover through it seems I would have fried, dried, then laid to the side my ECU if it was the least bit vulnerable.

I have a matched ECU/BCU in the garage but it is from an 03 4.6 with SAI.

 

Disco Mike, It was not me who made the diagnosis, but I am going to try and fix it. I took it the local Rover shop to have my O2 sensors fixed. I have the SES light and all new sensors, but B1S1 is showing 4.5 v steady and so are B1S2 and B2S2. The mechanic said that the ECU and wiring harness needed to be replaced

I took the truck home, and did some analysis myself, found that B1S1 had a missing power pin, so I replaced the plug. Now I have B1S2 and B2S2 showing some voltage movement between .1 and .8 but only after 3 - 5 min of engine running. B1S1 still shows steady 4.5 volts no movement. I thought ok, maybe bad sensor. Replace with new one (Bosch from Rockauto) still same result.

So, I am guessing the mechanic may have been right, the ECU is the culprit...

The whole thing is frustrating me, as the SES is on with P0134 (no activity on B1S1) and I can't get ride of it. My truck is running in open loop all the time and milage is down by 3 - 4 mpg. I now have a wire harness and matching set of BCU/ECU. Am I on the wrong track?

 

I am still driving around with the P0134 error. I have done more trouble shooting and proven the wire harness is good (I think)

I unplugged the harness from the ECU and did a ohm test between the wires... get an open (good thing) and i will go back and test to ground (forgot that). But once hooked back up to the ECO - I get a short between the power and gnd. Also - no 12 volts when powered up and running.

Do you think it sounds like the ECU? I have a good ECU / BCU but this may be more trouble than necessary. Also if I change the ECU/BCU out, will my keys still work? Alarm? etc etc... This could cause more trouble than it fixes. Thoughts?

HELP PLS

 

Keys? Probably.
Remotes? No.
Alarm? With the keys only, until you get the remotes reprogrammed.

Also your odometer will flash and also there might be some settings that are different in the BCU for things like fogs lights, heated windscreen, etc.

I've done it, and the vehicle was drivable just fine. Then if you can find someone with a nanocom or autologic later on you can get your mileage synced
(assuming your ODO is higher than what is stored on the used BCU) and your keys reprogrammed. You could also buy your own nanocom when they have their Christmas sale... I think everything is usually 20% or 25% off or something like that.

 

Jafir,

Would the Lynx Diagnostic do all the necessary programming? I can't find much on the nanocom, who carries it and where can I get it... It might be worth getting for this and future issues

 

I think lynx will, but I'm not sure. I've never used one or heard someone mention they had one.

Here is where to get Nanocom. http://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com