Educate a Newbie
#11
I know I've got lots of questions, just trying to get up to speed on all of this.
Is there a list of standardized questions to ask sellers when looking at vehicles? (I saw this thread but it's from 2010)
Going off of the above lists, something like:
Is there a list of standardized questions to ask sellers when looking at vehicles? (I saw this thread but it's from 2010)
Going off of the above lists, something like:
- What maintenance has been done to the engine/under the hood, and when, do you have records for (either where you bought the parts and DIY or from a shop):
- Head gasket (and what kind of bolts/studs were used: stretch, non-stretch, ARP studs?)
- Thermostat (and what kind)
- Intake manifold gasket
- Spark plugs and wires
- Water pump
- Radiator - replaced or when last flushed
- Oil pump
- Heater hoses
- Coolant bottle
- Have you done the PCV mod
- Camshaft/Crankshaft Position Sensor
- Idler pulleys
- Does the vehicle have SAI and if so has it be replaced/maintained (?)
- Any issues with the 3 amigos? If so, what has been replaced to get rid of?
- Any other gaskets? (Not sure, would love guidance)
- Check battery cable connections - loose, corroded?
- Check the oil and coolant caps using this post as a guide
- Has it overheated, ever?
- Driveshaft and Steering:
- Has the driveshaft been rebuilt/replaced with greasable u-joints?
- If so, when were they last greased? (I think I read something like every 5k miles)
- Have power steering hoses been replaced or has the pump needed to be replaced?
- Check axle differentials for leaks
- Check rear axle hubs for leaks
- Essentially, is the underside of the car 'wet' at all with leaks?
- Has the driveshaft been rebuilt/replaced with greasable u-joints?
- Transmission:
- Has it been serviced with new fluid (is this recommended? Know sometimes this can loosen up 'gunk' and make it worse in some vehicles)
- Has it been rebuilt (new clutches, seals?)
- CDL:
- For non-2004 editions, has the CDL kit been installed to activate it? (Or does it even have the CDL? Think I read something like 99 to mid-year 01's had it plus the 2004?)
- Interior:
- Is headliner sagging or when was it replaced?
- Are sunroofs working
- Do sunroofs leak?
- Have door lock motors been replaced?
- Have window motors been replaced?
- Exterior:
- Do all lights work
- Any cracks in the bumpers
- Have fender flares been refurbished
- Is roof or hood fading
- Is it a heated/non-heated windshield, if heated, does it work?
- Brakes:
- When were pads last replaced and with what
- Have rotors been replaced and with what
- Any leaks from master, has master been replaced, if so with what
- Brake lines - have they been replaced, if so when?
- Suspension:
- Still on air or swapped to springs/struts?
- If on air, has the pump or bags been replaced?
- When have things like ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bars/links been replaced?
- Other:
- Does A/C blow cold, and when running does the engine temp go up significantly (as in, could cause an overheat? - likely needing a ultragauge installed or the bluetooth version to see this since everything I've seen says the dash gauge is useless; if you're in the red you've already cooked everything)
- Does the vehicle have rear air? Does it work? (Would love pointers on what years/models have this)
- Fuel pump and lines - have they ever been replaced
- Frame - look for rust
- Does A/C blow cold, and when running does the engine temp go up significantly (as in, could cause an overheat? - likely needing a ultragauge installed or the bluetooth version to see this since everything I've seen says the dash gauge is useless; if you're in the red you've already cooked everything)
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JUKE179r (04-06-2020)
#12
That should cover the questions...but...just be sure to drive it on a lengthy test drive...at least twenty minutes minimum. You've done your research and got some good follow up ideas here, so you are one step ahead of a lot of folks. If turning wrenches isn't your thing, look for the best maintain Dll you can find and pay the extra. Here is as good place to look, they come up regularly...and if it is a long time member...odds are they've done the right repairs or will not sell you a lemon intentionally. Mind you, any one you buy will be at least 16 years old...so...no matter what the condition or maintence...things can still go wrong. Best bet is to get a device to monitor systems while driving, then you can watch for any spike in temp. Other than that, they are a fun vehicle to drive and pretty comfortable.
Plus, you found this site and folks here will walk you through any repair necessary. Not much we haven't seen before.
Good luck, in your endeavor.
Brian.
Plus, you found this site and folks here will walk you through any repair necessary. Not much we haven't seen before.
Good luck, in your endeavor.
Brian.
#13
When shopping for a Disco, the choices basically boil down to:
1. Walk or buy
2. Disco A or Disco B
3. Fully restored, decently maintained, or needs work.
Of course, your price range and desired options factor in, but its not like you can walk in to a dealer and order one. The key things that make me walk are rusted frame, crappy paint, and general trashed interior (if someone abuses the interior, they have not maintained it either).
Fully restored, decently maintained, or needs work is more of a price range issue.
Disco A or Disco B, I almost always pick the one with the lowest mileage if there is significant difference because it affects the value and is not changeable legally. If the difference is small, I pick the one that has had the HG recently done or has otherwise been maintained the best mechanically.
Good luck with your search.
1. Walk or buy
2. Disco A or Disco B
3. Fully restored, decently maintained, or needs work.
Of course, your price range and desired options factor in, but its not like you can walk in to a dealer and order one. The key things that make me walk are rusted frame, crappy paint, and general trashed interior (if someone abuses the interior, they have not maintained it either).
Fully restored, decently maintained, or needs work is more of a price range issue.
Disco A or Disco B, I almost always pick the one with the lowest mileage if there is significant difference because it affects the value and is not changeable legally. If the difference is small, I pick the one that has had the HG recently done or has otherwise been maintained the best mechanically.
Good luck with your search.
#14
Another question: how does everyone insure their vehicles? Seems like classic car problem where the value + parts would be more than what insurance would give you. Do you use a standard big insurer and get full coverage, liability only, or go through someplace like Hagerty Insurance that would understand the actual value of the vehicle compared to an uneducated adjustor from a big company?
#15
Also, is there a post here or elsewhere that explains the difference in the various years, trims, etc.? Or should I just go to KBB or Edmunds and look at each year?
For example, looking at KBB I see the 2001 model year (just randomly picked) had: SE7, SD, LE, SD7, LE7, SE. I'm guessing the 7 means jump seats in the back, but the rest is a mystery to me.
Even things like:
For example, looking at KBB I see the 2001 model year (just randomly picked) had: SE7, SD, LE, SD7, LE7, SE. I'm guessing the 7 means jump seats in the back, but the rest is a mystery to me.
Even things like:
- it looks like the 99-02 lights/bumper are different than 03-04. Saw some posts where people wanted to swap, and others talked about how the 03-04 are plastic and likely to fog up via UV deterioration vs the glass ones in the 99-02s. Lots of little details I don't know so would love if there was a post/site that explained it clearly
- 04 having the locking CDL, and 99-mid 01 having the ability to add it with the Ashcroft kit
- Some years having SAI which all I know is appears to be a pain in the rear, but I don't have any idea of which years
- Etc.
#16
Also, is there a post here or elsewhere that explains the difference in the various years, trims, etc.? Or should I just go to KBB or Edmunds and look at each year?
For example, looking at KBB I see the 2001 model year (just randomly picked) had: SE7, SD, LE, SD7, LE7, SE. I'm guessing the 7 means jump seats in the back, but the rest is a mystery to me.
Even things like:
For example, looking at KBB I see the 2001 model year (just randomly picked) had: SE7, SD, LE, SD7, LE7, SE. I'm guessing the 7 means jump seats in the back, but the rest is a mystery to me.
Even things like:
- it looks like the 99-02 lights/bumper are different than 03-04. Saw some posts where people wanted to swap, and others talked about how the 03-04 are plastic and likely to fog up via UV deterioration vs the glass ones in the 99-02s. Lots of little details I don't know so would love if there was a post/site that explained it clearly
- 04 having the locking CDL, and 99-mid 01 having the ability to add it with the Ashcroft kit
- Some years having SAI which all I know is appears to be a pain in the rear, but I don't have any idea of which years
- Etc.
#19
Waiting on some documentation from a potential seller... but wanted to get some general thoughts.
If a car has had head gasket/valve, gray thermostat, intake manifold gasket, plugs and wires, water pump, radiator done in last 3,000-5,000 miles... but not oil pump/gasket, timing chain, coolant bottle, crankshaft position sensor, idler pulleys, serpentine belts... any red flags there? Seller is saying they were hunting down a coolant leak and were $800 into it with the shop when it was found to be the intake manifold gasket (if I am reading my notes right), but they figured... the head gasket is a known problem here, we're this far in, might as well go ahead with the rest. Plausible story or should I be afraid of something nefarious?
Likewise, how long should a remanufactured driveshaft last? Previous owner put a non-greasable remanufactured one on some 30-45k miles ago.
If a car has had head gasket/valve, gray thermostat, intake manifold gasket, plugs and wires, water pump, radiator done in last 3,000-5,000 miles... but not oil pump/gasket, timing chain, coolant bottle, crankshaft position sensor, idler pulleys, serpentine belts... any red flags there? Seller is saying they were hunting down a coolant leak and were $800 into it with the shop when it was found to be the intake manifold gasket (if I am reading my notes right), but they figured... the head gasket is a known problem here, we're this far in, might as well go ahead with the rest. Plausible story or should I be afraid of something nefarious?
Likewise, how long should a remanufactured driveshaft last? Previous owner put a non-greasable remanufactured one on some 30-45k miles ago.
#20
@TheBestCow Well the drive shaft you will want to replace, it could go another 30k or 200 miles there is no way to know, they are cheap enough it is good peace of mind.
As to the rest is hard to say all the items that were not done do not need replacing when head gasket go. But I find it odd someone would pay the extra to replace head gaskets that were fine, the added costs can be pretty significant. If he has the receipts I see no red flags there.
As to the rest is hard to say all the items that were not done do not need replacing when head gasket go. But I find it odd someone would pay the extra to replace head gaskets that were fine, the added costs can be pretty significant. If he has the receipts I see no red flags there.