Hey guys. Trying to understand if my fan is working. 2001 disco 120k miles. Engine was at 226 idling and fan was not on. Outside temp was 50. Turned on a/c and still did not come on. Turned on defroster and still nothing. All fuses are good. Am I missing something or is it time to replace the fan?

 

I'd check for power at the fan before just replacing it.

 

Fan has a relay in the under hood fuse box, and 40 amp fuse. You can unplug relay, and short relay socket pin 30 & 87, fan should run. ECM decides when to turn it on, it should come on at 212F, back off at 202F as an example. See attached drawing from RAVE.

But also from the RAVE, this note about when a fan request is cancelled (below 77 F):



request is output if vehicle speed is 80 km/h or less while the external air temperature is 28

 

 

See attached spec page, which explains when fan should come on.

Good catch on water pump, will leak from front, and begin to wobble the pulley. If it comes loose, fan eats radiator. Space inside is tight, so the wobble "eats" aluminum. Keep bolts in order, they are various lengths, careful on removal - don't want to shear one off in the front cover.

 

You should change your hoses, t stat and drive belt if they have not been done, this is the time. Your going to be pulling them off to do the waterpump, also change out your coolant.

 

And if it was dexcool (orange) flush to the max. There is a GM TSB that calls for using Prestone powered flush, run outside for 2 1/2 hours. People mix any old coolant with Dexcool, and that makes it for sludge even sooner.

See Throttle Body Heater Plate Kit | Land Rover And Range Rover Fuel System Parts for throttle plate, you might as well do that.

Also the new hoses is a good idea, note swollen ends on these in pix. If old hoses and serpantine belt are "ok" keep them as emergency spares in the truck.

 

I was finally able to get to this over the weekend. Here is some pictures. The pump is not original and looks good. I think the leak was coming from the weep hole but hard to tell. The gasket was a pain. I didn't see any sealant but it seemed to be glued. The thermostat looks good but since I got a new one, I will install it anyway. Replaced the top hose because the bleed screw was broken and dripping. Replaced the bottom hose because I could not get it off the pump so I cut it. I have bleed the system but still have sound in dash. I'll try to bleed it a few more times before I think the wrost. Buzz - I followed your sugguestion on checking the fans. From the test - I need to replace it. Do most buy used or is there a new motor that will work from another car with modification?

 

IMHO - check fuse 5 underhood box (40 amp)and relay 4 in same box. This turns on the cooling fan. You want to be sure you have a solid 12 volts going to fan.

The fan is $370 at a lot of on-line sites. I would consider a dismantler, a salvage yard, or just measure and fit a generic Hayden electric one (Advance Auto). A 10 inch one draws abou 9 amps, the 16 inch draws about 20. You want air flow when mounted to be toward engine block. The AC condenser will never know what brand of fan is blowing on it. About $70. Being the cheap experimenter, I would be tempted to pick up a salvage yard one that would fit in same space.