Just finished installing a Flex-a-lite Black Magic fan. It's temperature controlled (adjustable) and wired also to turn on with the AC. This was about the limit of my electric know-how to be honest (which isn't much), so I'm probably more excited than average.
Got the one for the 5.0L Mustangs...3,300cfm, 15". Reason being, even though it comes with it's own shroud, it fits under the top half of the factory fan shroud (part that holds all the coolant lines) and the mounting was pretty easy. Looks totally factory.
Will post any noticeable differences in power or mpg.
Got the one for the 5.0L Mustangs...3,300cfm, 15". Reason being, even though it comes with it's own shroud, it fits under the top half of the factory fan shroud (part that holds all the coolant lines) and the mounting was pretty easy. Looks totally factory.
Will post any noticeable differences in power or mpg.
Super Moderator
So if AC is off, will fan come on as wired at idle on hot day?
Do you have a scanner or Ultra Gauge to monitor temps in digital fashion during the test phase? I'm not saying it won't work, what I'm pointing out is that the stock gauge won't tell you it isn't working well until temps are out of hand.
Is this replacing your mechanical fan or electric fan or both?
Pictures?
Do you have a scanner or Ultra Gauge to monitor temps in digital fashion during the test phase? I'm not saying it won't work, what I'm pointing out is that the stock gauge won't tell you it isn't working well until temps are out of hand.
Is this replacing your mechanical fan or electric fan or both?
Pictures?
I hate uploading pics...may get to it though.
It replaced mechanical fan only. It comes on when temp reaches right around 1/2 way on the gauge. I don't have a digital scanner but had the fan set on the lowest setting until I got the temps up and started adjusting from there.
It replaced mechanical fan only. It comes on when temp reaches right around 1/2 way on the gauge. I don't have a digital scanner but had the fan set on the lowest setting until I got the temps up and started adjusting from there.
OK, got a photobucket account. Here's the control module. Mounted it on the side of the jack holder because it was close to the fan and battery: http://s1254.beta.photobucket.com/us...tml?sort=3&o=4
Here's the top mounting bracket. I routed the coolant return line and factory bracket under the new bracket. Had to trim the parts on each side that run down the sides of the radiator. Their only purpose is to provide mounts for the bottom half of the shroud though, so no loss. Topmountbracket_zps66609f90.jpg picture by dnigolian - Photobucket
Here's the temp probe next to the inlet hose. Here you can see where I cut the plastic from the factory bracket as mentioned above. TempProbe_zpsa7e3094f.jpg picture by dnigolian - Photobucket
3-way connector off the compressor which was an optional step. You can just have the fan governed by the temp. CompressorSplice_zps9ad8e3a1.jpg picture by dnigolian - Photobucket
The hard part: 2 generic L-brackets, hardware that came with the fan on the fan end and drilled into the frame for the other. Pretty solid though. BottomBracket_zps03b7a565.jpg picture by dnigolian - Photobucket
Here's the top mounting bracket. I routed the coolant return line and factory bracket under the new bracket. Had to trim the parts on each side that run down the sides of the radiator. Their only purpose is to provide mounts for the bottom half of the shroud though, so no loss. Topmountbracket_zps66609f90.jpg picture by dnigolian - Photobucket
Here's the temp probe next to the inlet hose. Here you can see where I cut the plastic from the factory bracket as mentioned above. TempProbe_zpsa7e3094f.jpg picture by dnigolian - Photobucket
3-way connector off the compressor which was an optional step. You can just have the fan governed by the temp. CompressorSplice_zps9ad8e3a1.jpg picture by dnigolian - Photobucket
The hard part: 2 generic L-brackets, hardware that came with the fan on the fan end and drilled into the frame for the other. Pretty solid though. BottomBracket_zps03b7a565.jpg picture by dnigolian - Photobucket
Recovery Vehicle
Good work. Would live to see what your temps are with an ultra gauge. After lots of fan related issues, I too wanted to do an electric fan but never did. I'm thinking you should see a little increase in power, maybe even a slight increase in mpg without the propellor. But, the temps are the big thing. That sounds like it should pull enough air. I especially like electric for stop and go traffic.
Super Moderator
Here's a potential problem. Halfway on the gauge covers a wide range of temps, as the gauge is not "linear" but instead driven directly by the ECU to maintain 50% setting from temp "X" to temp "Y", and I don't know those exact numbers. But here's of pix of one, and you can see that mid-point might not be the temps you want to run at. PIx of a D2, and a D1, (both suffer similar display issues, but based on different electrical designs). If Ultra Gauge not available, a scanner that reads codes and live data can help (some parts stores loan them, or will coem out and attach them to the truck in the parking lot, etc.).
While there are vaious opinions on this site of the optimum temperature (any where from 170 to 195), most would agreed that extended operation above 215 is not in the best long term interest of your wallet.
As for increased mpg, some users in the frozen north have taken off the fan in winter and not noticed a change in mpg. A lot of that also come from the fan clutch doing the job it was designed to do and reducing the power transfer to the fan at normal temps to about 20%; even less with a worn out fan clutch. Now in Dad's high school 442, with no fan clutch, yep, a few horse power to be gleaned there.
I have electric fans stock in my 230,000 mile Kia van, 180F all the time. And a lot of other cars out there with only electric fans. They do work. But with Rover, getting it to work right is very important. IMHO it would be better to run fan cooler if possible. A new lower temp 82C thermostat is a big help as well.
While there are vaious opinions on this site of the optimum temperature (any where from 170 to 195), most would agreed that extended operation above 215 is not in the best long term interest of your wallet.
As for increased mpg, some users in the frozen north have taken off the fan in winter and not noticed a change in mpg. A lot of that also come from the fan clutch doing the job it was designed to do and reducing the power transfer to the fan at normal temps to about 20%; even less with a worn out fan clutch. Now in Dad's high school 442, with no fan clutch, yep, a few horse power to be gleaned there.
I have electric fans stock in my 230,000 mile Kia van, 180F all the time. And a lot of other cars out there with only electric fans. They do work. But with Rover, getting it to work right is very important. IMHO it would be better to run fan cooler if possible. A new lower temp 82C thermostat is a big help as well.
Quote:
Where did you buy the fan and do you have the part#?
autoplicity.com had it for $294.54 (Flex-A-Lite 185 Mustang 5.0L Black Magic Xtreme 15" Fan) Originally Posted by Rover_Hokie
Dan7,Where did you buy the fan and do you have the part#?
But I don't know them and Jegs price compares, so I sent them that link and got that price + free shipping.
Quote:
While there are vaious opinions on this site of the optimum temperature (any where from 170 to 195), most would agreed that extended operation above 215 is not in the best long term interest of your wallet.
As for increased mpg, some users in the frozen north have taken off the fan in winter and not noticed a change in mpg. A lot of that also come from the fan clutch doing the job it was designed to do and reducing the power transfer to the fan at normal temps to about 20%; even less with a worn out fan clutch. Now in Dad's high school 442, with no fan clutch, yep, a few horse power to be gleaned there.
I have electric fans stock in my 230,000 mile Kia van, 180F all the time. And a lot of other cars out there with only electric fans. They do work. But with Rover, getting it to work right is very important. IMHO it would be better to run fan cooler if possible. A new lower temp 82C thermostat is a big help as well.
Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Here's a potential problem. Halfway on the gauge covers a wide range of temps, as the gauge is not "linear" but instead driven directly by the ECU to maintain 50% setting from temp "X" to temp "Y", and I don't know those exact numbers. But here's of pix of one, and you can see that mid-point might not be the temps you want to run at. PIx of a D2, and a D1, (both suffer similar display issues, but based on different electrical designs). If Ultra Gauge not available, a scanner that reads codes and live data can help (some parts stores loan them, or will coem out and attach them to the truck in the parking lot, etc.).While there are vaious opinions on this site of the optimum temperature (any where from 170 to 195), most would agreed that extended operation above 215 is not in the best long term interest of your wallet.
As for increased mpg, some users in the frozen north have taken off the fan in winter and not noticed a change in mpg. A lot of that also come from the fan clutch doing the job it was designed to do and reducing the power transfer to the fan at normal temps to about 20%; even less with a worn out fan clutch. Now in Dad's high school 442, with no fan clutch, yep, a few horse power to be gleaned there.
I have electric fans stock in my 230,000 mile Kia van, 180F all the time. And a lot of other cars out there with only electric fans. They do work. But with Rover, getting it to work right is very important. IMHO it would be better to run fan cooler if possible. A new lower temp 82C thermostat is a big help as well.
Preaching to the choir...I've every intention of nailing down more accurate temps and fine tuning the fan. Meantine, I didn't want to hold up the install when I can just be conservative and run it at the cooler end of the "middle". I'll probably hit the parts store and do just that.