Electric Fan only comes on with A/C not by temp. Does the Coolant Temp Sensor signal the rad fan?
#11
RE: Electric Fan only comes on with A/C not by temp. Does the Coolant Temp Sensor signal the rad fan?
ORIGINAL: roverguy7
if its not comming on thats a good thing... the coolant has to get very hot for that alone to turn on. wont do it under normal opperating conditions, sometimes when offroading youll see it, and occasionally if you let it sit fora long time with it running
if its not comming on thats a good thing... the coolant has to get very hot for that alone to turn on. wont do it under normal opperating conditions, sometimes when offroading youll see it, and occasionally if you let it sit fora long time with it running
#12
I have the same problem and am trying to find the auxiliary fan sensor. I get all kinds of help except what I need. I found a sensor on the left side of the block above a freeze plug and the engine mount. This sensor goes into engine water which should be the hottest. I think this is the sensor I need to change. I just want confirmation that this is a fan heat sensor. I cannot understand why all my source printed and on-line fail to discuss the location of this fan sensor.
#13
I'm pretty sure that's the knock sensors.
Coolant sensors should both be on top. At least on the d1
Either way.. Your engine should not overheat, and the aux fans are not there to keep it from getting there idling. If your engine is overheating with The a/c on but not off it IS the fan clutch.
Coolant sensors should both be on top. At least on the d1
Either way.. Your engine should not overheat, and the aux fans are not there to keep it from getting there idling. If your engine is overheating with The a/c on but not off it IS the fan clutch.
#14
Coolant temp sensor for the D2 is a single unit, between the alternator and AC compressor, on top. It signals the ECU, the ECU drives fueling, dash gauge, electric fan relay, and other things from this single sensor. A scanner or ultra gauge can show you the digital temp the ECU is monitoring at any time.
Electric fans in a D1 come on with AC, and at other times. On a D2 they follow a slightly different set of rules:
If electric fan never comes on that is a problem. If electric fan blades don't spin freely, motor is siezed or almost. If keep blowing fuse the motor is siezing up.
If viscous fan clutch allows main fan to spin more than 1 revolution when hot or cold, when spun by hand and released, then it has lost internal fluid and needs to be replaced. Should feel like peanut butter inside, not penetrating oil.
Dash gauge is designed to be innacurate to avoid widespread panic. The engineer who designed it (Dr Goofus Bastid) has a brother (Robin Bastid) in the head gasket business. Anything above 50% is suspect. On a D2 it is a digital reading running an analog pointer (cool, OK, toast). On a D1, not much better.
Electric fans in a D1 come on with AC, and at other times. On a D2 they follow a slightly different set of rules:
Electric cooling fan switching points:
For A/C system:
On When vehicle speed is 50 mph (80 km/h) or less and ambient temperature is 28 °C (82 °F) or more
Off When vehicle speed increases to (62.5 mph (100 km/h) or ambient temperature decreases to 25 °C (77 °F)
For engine cooling during normal running:
On 100 °C (212 °F)
Off 94.5 °C (202 °F)
For engine cooling at ignition off (to counteract heat soak):
On If, within 10 seconds of ignition off, intake air temperature is 60 °C (140°F) or more and engine coolant temperature is 110 °C (230 °F) or more
Off After 10 minutes or if engine coolant temperature decreases to 100 °C (212 °F)
For A/C system:
On When vehicle speed is 50 mph (80 km/h) or less and ambient temperature is 28 °C (82 °F) or more
Off When vehicle speed increases to (62.5 mph (100 km/h) or ambient temperature decreases to 25 °C (77 °F)
For engine cooling during normal running:
On 100 °C (212 °F)
Off 94.5 °C (202 °F)
For engine cooling at ignition off (to counteract heat soak):
On If, within 10 seconds of ignition off, intake air temperature is 60 °C (140°F) or more and engine coolant temperature is 110 °C (230 °F) or more
Off After 10 minutes or if engine coolant temperature decreases to 100 °C (212 °F)
If electric fan never comes on that is a problem. If electric fan blades don't spin freely, motor is siezed or almost. If keep blowing fuse the motor is siezing up.
If viscous fan clutch allows main fan to spin more than 1 revolution when hot or cold, when spun by hand and released, then it has lost internal fluid and needs to be replaced. Should feel like peanut butter inside, not penetrating oil.
Dash gauge is designed to be innacurate to avoid widespread panic. The engineer who designed it (Dr Goofus Bastid) has a brother (Robin Bastid) in the head gasket business. Anything above 50% is suspect. On a D2 it is a digital reading running an analog pointer (cool, OK, toast). On a D1, not much better.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 08-14-2012 at 04:58 AM.
#15
I thought I had to be a purist and bought one from AB when my original one started wobbling all over the place and had the exact same thing happen. Gas mileage went subzero as well. Bought the cheap Chevy one from Advanced Auto seeking instant gratification, works perfectly. There are many threads on here about this conversion
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marlymarl
Discovery II
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04-21-2012 12:49 PM